Different opinions about Ash reduction

[rosenmarsh]

Dear Arborists

 

I have asked three professionals to quote for me for reducing the height of an Ash tree which blocks out sunlight in my garden.

However I have been told different things by each of them! One has said that he can only cut 25% off (a) in attachment) as anything more would damage the tree and cause it to rot and die.

The other two have both said that they can cut to c) which is about 25-30 feet off the ground. They have said that cutting it this low will cause multiple branches to sprout and they will need to be thinned within a three years.

Obviously I am concerned about cutting too low and causing the tree to die but at the same time want as much as light as possible.

I know there is another thread about something similar but I found some of the language quite technical so if you could explain technical terms would be appreciated

 

Many thanks for any advice

forum.doc

[RobRainford]

I would ignore B and C, they are both too severe IMO, although it is what can be called a pollard, its pretty much topping and i would not advise it for this tree.

 

Method A seems the most viable, however i would not cut so low as it is still topping it.

 

The tree has been topped before, so it will be difficult to make it look too good whichever way it is worked on.

 

In my view, the remaining crown at the top of the tree would benefit from having a thin, to remove branches inside the canopy, thus allowing more light through, and also reducing the outreach of the canopy in all directions, which would allow light around the tree, and you will see more benefit and still have a visually appealing tree.

 

However, to have consistent light through the tree it will have to be managed, as reactive growth will begin to close these gaps back up quickly and you are back to square one within a couple of years.

[Steve Bullman]

Neither of them are giving you bad advice IMO.

 

the lighter reduction will no doubt be easier for the tree to handle, and whilst its more likely to decay if hit back harder its not necessarily the case that it will die. There are many ancient trees in this country that have been reduced hard many years previously and still alive.

 

The second 2 companies suggesting it can be hit back harder are being responsible telling you to prune it again every 3 years, as the regrowth will be weaker and have the potential to break out if decay enters the stems(which is highly likely)....so its important that you carry out that advice if you chose to go with the heavier reduction.

 

Furthermore, I just looked at the diagram again. Cutting to point A is just as likely to cause decay stems as B and C. A sensitive reduction would involve taking even less

 

Hope this helps

[Tony Croft aka hamadryad]

There is little difference in real terms (decay and foliage loss) between a b and C.

 

to achieve your goals B is the point at which I would suggest (as being a compromise between cut diameter and not having removed enough.

 

This tree will pollard well, but as a pollard I would look to do a reduction every 5 years or so- no longer than 8 years, no sooner than 3.

 

once this tree has been pruned to the line of B it will produce many epicormic or advantigious shoots many argue that these will be weakly attached and initialy this may be so but within three years they will have strengthend enough to enable a restoration of crown and make it possible to maintain a much lower more rounded form of crown.

 

Ash cope well with this type of pruning, far better than many other native genus.

 

the other option is of course to remove it.

[rosenmarsh]

Thanks for all your replies guys - very helpful. The tree is in my neighbour's garden so now will have to ask permission and also whether he will contribute to cost!

 

Many thanks again

 

Matthew

[Tony Croft aka hamadryad]

One thing I should also mention, if you do intend on cutting this tree to such lines please avoid dry periods of weather ash do not like being pruned in drought periods.

[Ian C]

Prune at base, Ash makes banging firewood

 

 

I would go with B or C also, Ash will cope and lets face it it's not the best looking tree to start with.

[Le Sanglier]

Prune at base, Ash makes banging firewood

 

 

I would go with B or C also, Ash will cope and lets face it it's not the best looking tree to start with.

 

 

firm but fair

[Rich Rule]

Do whatever your neighbour allows. After all, it isn't even on your property and is their tree. Speak to them and gauge their opinion on getting the tree cut before you ask them if they want to contribute.

[Jon Hartley]

All cutting is wounding. By cutting off all the green bits the tree wont be able to produce food and will become reliant on carbohydrates that it has stored within its woody structure and roots untill it can replace the lost leaves.

 

Ash does appear to "cope" with the hard pruning being suggested here. It will rapidly (depending on the time of year) put out new shoots in order to replace the leaf area it has lost. The result will be a very dense canopy (which could block more light than already does). This kind of stress limits the trees defences against pathogen attack. Decay fungi are already present in the wood. They are simply waiting for the right conditions to become active. By topping the tree and causing such large wounds in the stems it is likely that this will be the case. This is why we dont top trees.

 

Its not an easy decision to make but sometimes its better to just realise that it may be the wrong tree in the wrong location and remove it! There are other trees behind so it wouldnt be a massive shock if it was to go and the other trees look young enough to respond well to the altered exposure they would be subjected to.

 

Didnt you notice the tree before you moved in?