Brown ballistics time

[Pete Mctree]

With regards to the photo i would have placed the sap cuts in a different place. I prefer them further down the stem- up to the diameter of the stem below the face cut. I do this as i am often worried that they will detract from the strength and holding ability of the hinge if placed level.

[vduben]

i do mine about 3 inches below, i dont think they need to be that deep either.........just enough to stop the tears and pulling you off your irons

[Marc]

With regards to the photo i would have placed the sap cuts in a different place. I prefer them further down the stem- up to the diameter of the stem below the face cut. I do this as i am often worried that they will detract from the strength and holding ability of the hinge if placed level.

 

So are you saying you put your sap cuts a stems diameter below face cut, just curious?

 

Although it know makes sense to me that sap wood cuts should go above back cut and face completly severing the sap wood where the hinge will be, as the tree begins to fold over and break there will be no tearing of the sapwood as you've cut it above, there will be no fibers to tear (I hope that makes sense)

No chance of trapped saw no need to get them accuratly inline with back cut no worries etc.

[Marc]

With regards to the photo i would have placed the sap cuts in a different place. I prefer them further down the stem- up to the diameter of the stem below the face cut. I do this as i am often worried that they will detract from the strength and holding ability of the hinge if placed level.

 

Also so many variables, if your just chunking down stem or snatching then you don't need all the control of a full hinge as the center of gravity is not all over the place like when you still have a canopy, also type of wood.

I agree though with keeping more control and not undermining your hinge, and like the idea of putting the sap cuts well below.

[Mesterh]

Placed to prevent tears

 

Is the guy in the photo waering a Svensk Tradvard Skybelt? I'm after one to replace my old un but I cant find the exact make and model now that its all changed. Not sure if there made by Komet or Cresto they all look similar. They either have hard seats, no seat, or have a bridge.

[Tim Williams]

i take the point on sap cuts that they may or may not prevent barber chair but i think a it depends on the diameter of the timber being cut, as was pointed out if you remove some of the timber to the sides of your direction of fell then the saw can pass through on the back cut quicker so helping to reduce risk of barber chair. however on more substantial timber then I think dog tooth cuts are the way to go.

[David Humphries]

Is the guy in the photo waering a Svensk Tradvard Skybelt? I'm after one to replace my old un but I cant find the exact make and model now that its all changed. Not sure if there made by Komet or Cresto they all look similar. They either have hard seats, no seat, or have a bridge.

 

 

 

 

Will get belt info tomorrow if you're interested

 

 

 

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[Mesterh]

 

Will get belt info tomorrow if you're interested

 

 

 

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Please would be very much appreciated

[Marc]

Is it this one (as in the one without the sliding bridge) Its simply called a Cresto Skybelt http://www.treeworker.co.uk/acatalog/Cresto_Climbing_Harnesses_30.html

 

Personally i couldn't bare to buy the same harness twice, then again i've had 3 harnesses in 3 years none have worn out, i just like to experiment and it helps keep the tax bill down.

[Mesterh]

Is it this one (as in the one without the sliding bridge) Its simply called a Cresto Skybelt http://www.treeworker.co.uk/acatalog/Cresto_Climbing_Harnesses_30.html

 

Personally i couldn't bare to buy the same harness twice, then again i've had 3 harnesses in 3 years none have worn out, i just like to experiment and it helps keep the tax bill down.

 

No its not that one mate, that has a hard seat.Cheers though.

 

Actually its not for me its for one of the lads.