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Chainsaw beginner - can't get Husq going after refuel


ATC1983
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People who are unfamiliar with engines can make what appear to those who are familiar as very silly mistakes, I know of two people who when checking their cars for oil, filled the engine to the top with oil, not realising there is a dipstick.

 

I'm sure my lack of IT knowledge would probably make many laugh, its all about what you are familiar with.

 

Huk is spot on, I have known one newbie who filled 2 combi cans with diesel then fuelled saws with it and wondered why they wouldn’t run, and an “experienced arb” who gave me a rollocking for not having enough water in the engine, he put a gallon down the oil filler despite it having an oil can on the lid and a dipstick attached because “that’s where the water goes in the one he regularly drives”

 

Anyone can make a mistake, you are only a fool if you make the same mistake twice.

 

You guys taking the piss should report your cock ups here then we can all take the piss out of you.

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People who are unfamiliar with engines can make what appear to those who are familiar as very silly mistakes, I know of two people who when checking their cars for oil, filled the engine to the top with oil, not realising there is a dipstick.

 

I'm sure my lack of IT knowledge would probably make many laugh, its all about what you are familiar with.

 

Agree wholeheartedly with the sentiment, Dave, but my very real concern is that the OP's lack of knowledge could go beyond a basic mistake like this and cause him serious injury or worse :thumbdown:

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Been watching this thread all night, firstly - your operators manual can be found here - http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSO/HUSO2010_EUenAPen/HUSO2010_EUenAPen__1153137-26.pdf

 

It is for the 2010/2011 model so should be the correct one, please read the bits about fuel and chain oil - mixing ratios and correct tanks, read the bit about fitting and tensioning the chain, then read here OREGON Maintenance Manual

 

About chain,bar and sprocket maintenence.

 

After doing this, make sure you have chain/bar oil, two stroke oil (would recommend sticking to Stihl or Husky rather than B&Q) a scwrench - a screwdriver with a box spanner socket on the other end that will fit your plug and your bar nuts. I would also buy yourself a sharpening kit and at bare minimum - a hard hat with face and ear protection - for value - this bunch are very good on price -

Mister-Solutions Ltd

 

And lastly, when you break the saw - I can fix it for you, think that may be soon:001_rolleyes::lol:

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Been watching this thread all night, firstly - your operators manual can be found here - http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSO/HUSO2010_EUenAPen/HUSO2010_EUenAPen__1153137-26.pdf

 

It is for the 2010/2011 model so should be the correct one, please read the bits about fuel and chain oil - mixing ratios and correct tanks, read the bit about fitting and tensioning the chain, then read here OREGON Maintenance Manual

 

About chain,bar and sprocket maintenence.

 

After doing this, make sure you have chain/bar oil, two stroke oil (would recommend sticking to Stihl or Husky rather than B&Q) a scwrench - a screwdriver with a box spanner socket on the other end that will fit your plug and your bar nuts. I would also buy yourself a sharpening kit and at bare minimum - a hard hat with face and ear protection - for value - this bunch are very good on price -

Mister-Solutions Ltd

 

And lastly, when you break the saw - I can fix it for you, think that may be soon:001_rolleyes::lol:

 

 

I think that may even be now!

 

I agree with huck though you guys need to give him a break if he doesnt know what he is doing then he doesnt know, full stop.

However having done CS30 i am surprised he doesnt know, how on earth did you pass it if you dont even know to put petrol/2 stroke mix in the petrol tank????:confused1:

Just do what has been mentioned with cleaning it out and try again from the start. 5 litres of unleaded PETROL (not diesel or chain oil) should be mixed with 100ml of 2 stroke oil and it is important you get the mix correct. This goes in the petrol tank of the saw and then your chain oil (unmixed) goes in the other tank. Please be careful and if you still cant get it to start then send it to spud before you really break it!

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On my cs30 a couple of years ago there was one question that asked what Is the correct fuel mix.

 

All I answered was 50:1 and that was a pass. I don't think I ever got taught what 50:1 actually was on the course. I knew before hand because I worked before my course.

 

So the cs30 doesn't mean you have to know everything.

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On my cs30 a couple of years ago there was one question that asked what Is the correct fuel mix.

 

All I answered was 50:1 and that was a pass. I don't think I ever got taught what 50:1 actually was on the course. I knew before hand because I worked before my course.

 

So the cs30 doesn't mean you have to know everything.

 

Well it should IMO. Then maybe people wouldnt make silly mistakes like this. And looking at the bigger picture, If the courses were more informative and harder to pass then maybe people wouldnt have so many accidents which in turn would stop the HSE adding more rules and regs i.e. paperwork, to keep the robots programmed.

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Well it should IMO. Then maybe people wouldnt make silly mistakes like this. And looking at the bigger picture, If the courses were more informative and harder to pass then maybe people wouldnt have so many accidents which in turn would stop the HSE adding more rules and regs i.e. paperwork, to keep the robots programmed.

 

I completely agree about the courses I never said I didn't I was just saying my experience and why people who have Done the course could still possibly make mistakes like this.

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5 litres of unleaded PETROL (not diesel or chain oil) should be mixed with 100ml of 2 stroke oil and it is important you get the mix correct. This goes in the petrol tank of the saw ...

 

While I can't fault the above advice (straight from the chainsaw 101), I have the feeling, that it might be a good idea to switch to Aspen 2T for fuel, for the following reasons:

  • You can't get the mixture wrong, as it is premixed
  • If the fuel is left unused for weeks, the Aspen can be used, whereas the fuel/2 stroke mix needs a shake
  • If the fuel is left unused for months, the Aspen can be used, whereas the fuel/2 stroke mix needs to be discarded
  • For occasional use, a change to Aspen won't be a financial burden to speak of
  • Using Aspen, you virtually eliminate the chance of seizing the engine due to inadequate lubrication, or stalling it due to unburnt 2 stroke oil deposits.

 

I am aware that this may add to the confusion, but I honestly think it is valid advise in this case.

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