What's on your bench today?

[spudulike]

I think the new filter is 25 um and the yellow one is 80 odd.

Seems a big difference

 

sent from my phone but never in work time.

 

Black is 80 Micron

Yellow is 44 Micron

Orange - not sure but think 25 Micron

 

But.......you still have to clean the damn thing:001_rolleyes::001_rolleyes:

 

That wasn't aimed at you BTW:laugh1:

[Pinkfoot]

Black is 80 Micron

Yellow is 44 Micron

Orange - not sure but think 25 Micron

 

But.......you still have to clean the damn thing:001_rolleyes::001_rolleyes:

 

That wasn't aimed at you BTW:laugh1:

It may have been deserved if it was..

 

sent from my phone but never in work time.

[spudulike]

Had a mad busy three weeks, a right mix - FS410 X2 with various faults. Keep getting fractured aluminium clutch housing clamps on them and reckon it is the starting method.

 

Had a bevvy of MS200Ts, a rear handle one as well, 357XPs, MS341 with knocked out main bearings, long reach Komatsu, MS650 with a loose cylinder and more!!!

 

Also had my poorly Mordaunt Short 150w sub on the bench.... just stopped working, traced it back to the speaker output wire having a dry joint plus a switch for the notch filter needed cleaning. It is all back together and shifting air nicely now - the wife was astounded how much the cone moves with Led Zep Kashmir at full tilt:thumbup:

[spudulike]

Had an interesting MS660 in recently, another guy had "repaired" the saw and it had gone really bad, funny as he has a BIG following on Facebook!

 

It came to me with a seized (was supposed to be serviced) Chinese top end and a big chunk out of the inlet port....good start:001_rolleyes: I couldn't get hold of a Meteor top end so it was an OEM top end rebuild.

 

I ported the top end before fitting on customers instructions. I pressure checked it and BIG failure. I traced the first leak to damage to the crankcase wall leading in to one of the cavities behind the flywheel. No other option but to seal it with JB weld. Having done this, I removed the cylinder and found a protrusion in to the crankcase cavity so managed to remove it and reckon it was a piece of piston ring driven in to the casting that had damaged it as the metal was ferrous.

 

This was sorted, another check revealed a leaking/split inlet manifold. Got this sorted and then found that there was wear in the throttle linkage messing up the fast idle setting and stopping the saw working. I got this sorted, replaced a number of missing parts and finally fitted a new rim drive....I thought this saw had been serviced:001_rolleyes:

 

There was a load wrong with this saw - God knows what the previous bloke did for his £240 repair bill:001_rolleyes:

[billpierce]

Had pal over to yard to do some alaskan milling together today. His 880 wouldn't start. So checked spark, no spark, checked flywheel gap, no gap flywheel had been battering coil. Set gap reassembled, couldn't find 8mm nut for carb assumed it bounced away into sawdust. Started saw fired up.

 

Yes we thought!

 

But no. No no no no

 

Said nut had magically popped into carb boot, sucked into pot.

 

Siezed not so bad I hear you say? Well might get away with just a new piston, will have to see but pot doesn't look great some pretty nasty burrs.

 

Ah the piston skirt is smashed and the crank is full of chain oil.

 

Oh Goody the piston skirt got popped through the crankcase and into the oil tank.

 

Seems to be a golf piston

 

Ffs! Not good day milling!

 

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[spudulike]

Had pal over to yard to do some alaskan milling together today. His 880 wouldn't start. So checked spark, no spark, checked flywheel gap, no gap flywheel had been battering coil. Set gap reassembled, couldn't find 8mm nut for carb assumed it bounced away into sawdust. Started saw fired up.

 

Yes we thought!

 

But no. No no no no

 

Said nut had magically popped into carb boot, sucked into pot.

 

Siezed not so bad I hear you say? Well might get away with just a new piston, will have to see but pot doesn't look great some pretty nasty burrs.

 

Ah the piston skirt is smashed and the crank is full of chain oil.

 

Oh Goody the piston skirt got popped through the crankcase and into the oil tank.

 

Seems to be a golf piston[ATTACH]221585[/ATTACH][ATTACH]221586[/ATTACH]

 

Ffs! Not good day milling!

[ATTACH]221584[/ATTACH]

 

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That's a big version of what I have just posted. You may be able to split the cases and repair with a bit of epoxy, difficult to tell without seeing the damage. Good luck with it!

[billpierce]

That's a big version of what I have just posted. You may be able to split the cases and repair with a bit of epoxy, difficult to tell without seeing the damage. Good luck with it!

Can see a bit better here. Just to left of crank rod, above bearing dark hole size o yer thumb nail right on the gasket.

 

Thought about epoxy, but would it take the pressure?

 

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[billpierce]

Spud, yes looks like same shenanigans on the 660. Did you split the case to jb weld it? Was it on the gasket?

 

He golf piston rings are OK, but do oem shatter easily too?

 

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[spudulike]

Spud, yes looks like same shenanigans on the 660. Did you split the case to jb weld it? Was it on the gasket?

 

He golf piston rings are OK, but do oem shatter easily too?

 

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I traced the air leak and found it venting in one of the cavities behind the flywheel so filled the cavity with epoxy. I did this to Rich Rules 660 a couple of years ago as it had the same issue and it lasted. You can still remove the bolts etc so no issues there. If you have gone through to the oil tank then it will be a difficult fix without splitting the cases and it depends how bad the damage is.

 

Golf pistons are OK but nowadays stick to Meteor pistons and Caber rings when I can.

[Richard Thompson]

Not exactly on the bench but I've just stripped my log buster ready for some welding after cracking the hydraulic tank on Saturday morning I'll flush through the pipes and pump also service the engine and maybe even a little paint job