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spudulike

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Next problem,

Trying to remove an outboard clutch from a 357 without success :(

 

Tried screw driver and mallet (reverse thread) with the piston stopped. Even tried making my own 3 pronged gismo.

 

It seems stuck solid - any suggestions?

[ATTACH]196875[/ATTACH]

 

I made my own gizmo with a flat plate and three 6" nails which I use with an extension bar. I just use a longer bar if it is tight. Be assured that it will shift, you just need more force but lay off the hammer!

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Next problem,

Trying to remove an outboard clutch from a 357 without success :(

 

Tried screw driver and mallet (reverse thread) with the piston stopped. Even tried making my own 3 pronged gismo.

 

It seems stuck solid - any suggestions?

[ATTACH]196875[/ATTACH]

 

 

Don't force it, use a bigger hammer!

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Next problem,

Trying to remove an outboard clutch from a 357 without success :(

 

Tried screw driver and mallet (reverse thread) with the piston stopped. Even tried making my own 3 pronged gismo.

 

It seems stuck solid - any suggestions?

[ATTACH]196875[/ATTACH]

Same as WoodED said ..Impact gun if you have one and ether a cut up too fit impact grade socket or the Husqvarna tool for about 16 quid from G H S.

You won't need a piston stop ..just don't leave the pull start on as you can knacker it on re tightening if you get carried away..big leather glove works.

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Never, never fit a piston stop and use the screw driver and hammer method, you need to jar it against the compression ( deco valve out ) it will let go eventually, and not put a hole in the top of the piston.

 

Do you mean the screw in ones as I find the Stihl plastic bone ones pretty effective and do use rope, especially on hard to move clutches but am careful with where the piston is in regards to the ports!

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I never fit anything into the cylinder to lock the piston, this creates a direct force on top of the piston, the correct tool and an impact gun jars the clutch, which will remove it safely and no chance of internal damage.

 

OK - I don't posses an impact gun so there's the answer:thumbup: :lol:

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I had one on a 346 the other day that was so tight the impact gun would not shift it as it overcame compression and span the engine.

I tried every trick I had ever used, but in the end had to lock the piston, but to do this I removed the exhaust and measured the bore with a bit of brush cutter cord. The I cut a piece of rubber about 6mm thick to a circle the diameter of the piston, then trimmed two side so it would push through the exhaust port so that when brought to TDC it spread the load over the whole width of the piston, not just in the centre.

Even then the clutch to a lot of impacting to come off and I started to have concerns for the con rod, but all was well.

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I had one on a 346 the other day that was so tight the impact gun would not shift it as it overcame compression and span the engine.

I tried every trick I had ever used, but in the end had to lock the piston, but to do this I removed the exhaust and measured the bore with a bit of brush cutter cord. The I cut a piece of rubber about 6mm thick to a circle the diameter of the piston, then trimmed two side so it would push through the exhaust port so that when brought to TDC it spread the load over the whole width of the piston, not just in the centre.

Even then the clutch to a lot of impacting to come off and I started to have concerns for the con rod, but all was well.

My adventures on 350..346 saws has been that if the clutch is "Monster" tight and fights you all the way then the needle roller assembly is usually Pooped . Not necessarily connected in the lock up situation but could show the lack of regular removal or a smear of copper-slip on the crank thread. I get the feeling greasing of the roller race is overlooked by some.

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