What's on your bench today?

[GardenKit]

And I didn't expect a price match

Sorry Eddy, not really having a pop at you. My comments were meant to be generalised at the etiquette of dealing, prompted by Spuds quip.

 

Being on both the buying and selling ends of the game every day, brings me up against all sorts and its a bit of a hobby with me to study the etiquette of haggling.

 

To be candid, you may not have expected a price match, but you did ask for one. And you got it, although I am sure in this instance nobody expected you to buy. No hard feelings I hope?

[Eddy_t]

No, none what so ever, but having bought OEM kits before, having had to part with my left arm and right leg as payment... I had doubted adw could even get close (my local dealer wanted over 4x that price, plus vat!).

The 385 was the first saw I had, and after a carb problem, it seized, and I had it rebuild, but the repair bill was extortionate, so I looked on the internet and ended up here. I tend to steer clear of OEM prices now, especially if the aftermarket products are as cheap and close quality as they are.

[wyk]

If I had any extra cash right now I woulda jumped at OEM at that price.

 

BTW, Eddy said you're fat.

 

Ah yeahhh

[IVECOKID]

Just finished putting back together my HT75 Pole pruner after bending drive shaft by the engine , new shaft was wrong one so picked new one up again today and hey presto !

 

Because its been apart for a fortnight one had to sit and think (difficult at moment) how the 2springs and the sliding spacers' that support the drive shaft fit .

 

£102 for shaft ,took the wind out of my sails on what was going to be a cracking little

Job until it broke .

 

Ste

[Agi-Smash]

Evening all, hows it going? I see on here the other day there was a picture of a hayter 12/30, well i have one for doing the rough stuff but i have a question.

Does anyone know how to adjust the choke? Last season when you pushed the throttle all the way forward it would bring the choke on, now it starts to push the lever over but doesnt quite make it. The cable moves free enough and all linkages are free moving. To start engine if you give the choke lever a tiny poke it goes over and starts. Not the end of the world but annoying.

Many thanks

[spudulike]

Evening all, hows it going? I see on here the other day there was a picture of a hayter 12/30, well i have one for doing the rough stuff but i have a question.

Does anyone know how to adjust the choke? Last season when you pushed the throttle all the way forward it would bring the choke on, now it starts to push the lever over but doesnt quite make it. The cable moves free enough and all linkages are free moving. To start engine if you give the choke lever a tiny poke it goes over and starts. Not the end of the world but annoying.

Many thanks

 

Probably worth trying Gardenkits mower thread, may get better advice there:thumbup:

[GardenKit]

Evening all, hows it going? I see on here the other day there was a picture of a hayter 12/30, well i have one for doing the rough stuff but i have a question.

Does anyone know how to adjust the choke? Last season when you pushed the throttle all the way forward it would bring the choke on, now it starts to push the lever over but doesnt quite make it. The cable moves free enough and all linkages are free moving. To start engine if you give the choke lever a tiny poke it goes over and starts. Not the end of the world but annoying.

Many thanks

You just need to move the throttle cable in the little clamp on the linkage plate on the side of the engine.

 

Slacken the screw in the clamp, pull the outer (black) cable through the clamp just a little, towards the seat, 2mm will probably do it.

Then operate the throttle lever to full choke and check that the choke shaft lever is fully round to the closed position with just a fraction of play before the stop.

 

When the engine starts and the throttle is taken off choke, the lever should detent at full speed (around 3000 rpm is fine), but the choke should be just fully off.

 

Repeat the adjustment of the cable just 1mm at a time until you get it right.

[spudulike]

You just need to move the throttle cable in the little clamp on the linkage plate on the side of the engine.

 

Slacken the screw in the clamp, pull the outer (black) cable through the clamp just a little, towards the seat, 2mm will probably do it.

Then operate the throttle lever to full choke and check that the choke shaft lever is fully round to the closed position with just a fraction of play before the stop.

 

When the engine starts and the throttle is taken off choke, the lever should detent at full speed (around 3000 rpm is fine), but the choke should be just fully off.

 

Repeat the adjustment of the cable just 1mm at a time until you get it right.

 

MowerMan is back wearing his underpants on the outside of his trousers again:thumbup:

[Agi-Smash]

Thank you gentlemen.

I thought it would be something simple as it used to work well. I will have a play tomorrow and see what happens. I found a sticker on the back that says max 3100rpm.

 

I found out something you might be find handy this week. My starter motor was getting lazy and making noises and smells, brushes worn out. You can get a brush kit ready built with the back plate and terminal all ready to slip on for £13. Good old Ebay.

[wyk]

Dolmar 5105. Runs very well... until it cuts out. Seems to do it randomly too. Hot, cold, whatever. But only cuts out at idle. Otherwise, I am impressed.