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spudulike

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Hello peeps, I've just rebuilt my 880, I think the H screw is little lean, but can't richen anymore because of the carb limiter caps. Tached it at nearly 12k in cut, funny for a coil limited saw of 11k(?)

 

I'll remove the cap and further adjust, but it is necessary to refit the limiter caps? -do they serve another purpose other than to prevent over adjustment?

 

I don't think it's far off, but I'd like to air on the side of caution and run it a little rich, as I don't fancy shelling out for another pot & piston anytime soon.

 

(sorry if this has been asked before, but my search didn't find much, except a brief mention on page 8 of this thread - another 880 rebuild - see that saw was fitted with an after market piston, not something I would now recommend)

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Hello peeps, I've just rebuilt my 880, I think the H screw is little lean, but can't richen anymore because of the carb limiter caps. Tached it at nearly 12k in cut, funny for a coil limited saw of 11k(?)

 

I'll remove the cap and further adjust, but it is necessary to refit the limiter caps? -do they serve another purpose other than to prevent over adjustment?

 

I don't think it's far off, but I'd like to air on the side of caution and run it a little rich, as I don't fancy shelling out for another pot & piston anytime soon.

 

(sorry if this has been asked before, but my search didn't find much, except a brief mention on page 8 of this thread - another 880 rebuild - see that saw was fitted with an after market piston, not something I would now recommend)

 

The limit caps are there to stop the uninitiated fiddling with the settings and seizing their engines!

 

You can either pull the limit caps and adjust then replace or simply leave them off - no damage should occur unless some misguided fella has a fiddle!

 

The 880 on this thread was one I did and it was the owners decision to go aftermarket - TBH, the Golf pistons are not too bad but the Meteor ones are much better!

 

You probably know, you cant get Meteor pistons or aftermarket cylinders for these machines.

 

From memory, I believe the saw should make 12,000 revs maximum free standing but double check!

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Thanks Spud, that was a quick reply!

-yeah the golf piston in mine did 4+ years before expiring, what you get for £25 I guess.

 

Ok so the coil will go upto 12k, think the book says to tune to 11k, I'll double check.

 

Once I've got it running with confidence that I'm not going to cook it I'll post some exhaust temp readings. I've fitted a small probe near the exhaust port - will see what temp is runs at in a milling cut. I intend to open the exhaust pipe up a bit, not to give it more power, but just to let it breath a little easier, and stay cooler. I can compare temp readings to see if it's actually worth it.

 

What do reckon re-pipe increase?

 

Cheers.

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Thanks Spud, that was a quick reply!

-yeah the golf piston in mine did 4+ years before expiring, what you get for £25 I guess.

 

Ok so the coil will go upto 12k, think the book says to tune to 11k, I'll double check.

 

Once I've got it running with confidence that I'm not going to cook it I'll post some exhaust temp readings. I've fitted a small probe near the exhaust port - will see what temp is runs at in a milling cut. I intend to open the exhaust pipe up a bit, not to give it more power, but just to let it breath a little easier, and stay cooler. I can compare temp readings to see if it's actually worth it.

 

What do reckon re-pipe increase?

 

 

Cheers.

 

 

One of he US guys measured an 026 Stihl before and after porting/muffler mod and measured a drop in temperature.

 

If you want good flow but not a real loud saw, try opening up the outlet hole by 2-3 times - the shroud can be lengthened by brazing/welding in an extra length of shield. If the sound is allowed to bounce of an internal surface before exiting, it will quieten the saw down, forward facing outlets can get pretty noisy!

 

It should give you extra cutting speed just check the colour of the plug and max revs.

 

4 years isn't too bad for after market - milling is pretty harsh and at least it didn't go pop big time - am assuming it didn't:blushing:

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Don't know if I'm supposed to post into this elite sub-forum but on my bench today is a Walbro 35B with a silly, plastic fast tick over control over that's too worn to work. It appears on Walbro's exploded drawing but is not listed as a part. Do you redhot boys have a workaround for this really annoying problem? Thanks in advance!

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