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spudulike

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Bit of a 200t niggle that has been bugging me a little bit.

 

I've had a few (almost all) 200t saws with the half choke not working. Now I know this is because of the plastic trigger. So a question. Has anyone every thought of having a metal trigger made up for them.

 

I'm thinking of visiting my local fabricator with a trigger and seeing if they could cast one up. I know this would also wear the white part of the linkage away. But am I just goin crazy? And is it really worth it for a 3 quid part.

 

Short answer...NO:001_rolleyes::lol:

 

Whats the point - most people overcome it by holding the throttle open and pulling the saw over hard - I, like you, replace the part and as you say....£3 - get over it, just fit the new part - they do last years in most cases!

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After reading through the "Got kickback for a saw" thread, does anyone know what the fix is for the jelly chainbrake issues with the 660 & 441 ?

 

Buying husqvarna chainsaws, make the hand guard out of metal, move the exhaust outlet?

All said and done, stihl haven't addressed these problems, there is no cure

 

 

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Buying husqvarna chainsaws, make the hand guard out of metal, move the exhaust outlet?

All said and done, stihl haven't addressed these problems, there is no cure

 

 

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Yeah, these are two that were purchased before I had seen the light.

Have considered selling the 660 and getting a big Husqy

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All said and done, stihl haven't addressed these problems, there is no cure

 

 

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I really do not get it.

 

I do think Stihl is getting a bit too much stick over current issues, sure, they do seem to have made some bloopers recently, but even though I am not a main Stihl dealer I did hold their Pro products in high regard. (can not say this about their lower range stuff though, very poor in my opinion).

 

But I simply cannot understand how it can be so difficult for them to realise they have a problem with plastic handles that are too flexible and actually produce a stronger handle. Its hardly rocket science and they have had two years or more to sort it.:confused1:

 

They have had a few too many issues now, the 201t, the 261, the soft handles, the 4 mix engine and now the 661. I wonder if they can come back from this?

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I really do not get it.

 

I do think Stihl is getting a bit too much stick over current issues, sure, they do seem to have made some bloopers recently, but even though I am not a main Stihl dealer I did hold their Pro products in high regard. (can not say this about their lower range stuff though, very poor in my opinion).

 

But I simply cannot understand how it can be so difficult for them to realise they have a problem with plastic handles that are too flexible and actually produce a stronger handle. Its hardly rocket science and they have had two years or more to sort it.:confused1:

 

They have had a few too many issues now, the 201t, the 261, the soft handles, the 4 mix engine and now the 661. I wonder if they can come back from this?

 

Some of the stihl stuff is awesome, I'm topping trees ATM with my 150t, it doesn't miss a beat, it's light and powerful, as is the likes of the 241, the quality of stihl is so inconsistent currently

 

Wolf man, have you tried Jon mendiplogs if you're selling the 660?

 

 

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After reading through the "Got kickback for a saw" thread, does anyone know what the fix is for the jelly chainbrake issues with the 660 & 441 ?

 

The 441 isn't always the handle. It so the lug inside that holds the parts together. It will come lose and the ally around it breaks.

 

The 660, I would check the above first, but the exhaust can be an issue. But I have seen the fix for this with a surround on the out let. But this doesn't always work. A new outlet in the exhaust to divert the gasses away from the handle will work.

 

I don't really agree that they should use metal handles. Plastic or metal, so long as it works it's fine.

 

And with a metal handle who would really think they have a problem with the brake until it kicks and doesn't engage????

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The 441 isn't always the handle. It so the lug inside that holds the parts together. It will come lose and the ally around it breaks.

 

The 660, I would check the above first, but the exhaust can be an issue. But I have seen the fix for this with a surround on the out let. But this doesn't always work. A new outlet in the exhaust to divert the gasses away from the handle will work.

 

I don't really agree that they should use metal handles. Plastic or metal, so long as it works it's fine.

 

And with a metal handle who would really think they have a problem with the brake until it kicks and doesn't engage????

 

Why would a metal handle change anything? The old swede-omatic husky brakes were metal, they just use plastic now for cost... and to preserve your arm and wrist

 

 

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