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What's on your bench today?


spudulike

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Thats not the first time, you can usually push the side cover against the brake handle very firmly and take the brake off like that but removing the clutch makes it a lot easier as it will sit in the usual position.

 

Garden kit made a nice tool out of a scwrench - come on Barrie - time for a photo:thumbup:

 

Depends on how many you do! Your next issue will be refitting the big spring:blushing:

 

I put a new chain brake on an old Husky 41 yesterday. I used a metal plate to hold the spring in place (nothing new there, saw it on Youtube) and a slotted screwdriver head from Screwfix to push the tab onto the brake off position. The slotted head was in a pack of heads for security screws(about £5) which I had bought for the Torx heads with the cut out. :001_smile:

 

While on the subject of the Husqvarna 41, can anybody tell me the mixture settings for this saw please?

Edited by felixthelogchopper
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I put a new chain brake on an old Husky 41 yesterday. I used a metal plate to hold the spring in place (nothing new there, saw it on Youtube) and a slotted screwdriver head from Screwfix to push the tab onto the brake off position. The slotted head was in a pack of heads for security screws(about £5) which I had bought for the Torx heads with the cut out. :001_smile:

 

While on the subject of the Husqvarna 41, can anybody tell me the mixture settings for this saw please?

 

Walbro or tillotson carb?

They are both 2 1/2 on H and 2 on L according to the husky manual.

Edited by wisecobandit
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TBH, the straight shaft versions of these strimmers are damn fine and far better than the modern stuff coming out of many factorys - just sorted a Komatsu powered Allen 22 - had a blown coil so replaced it with one of an MS200:blushing:

 

Works fine :thumbup:

 

try spinning the strimmer spool and it should be free moving - if it isn't then you are probably right and it will need a flush and grease.

 

It should have plenty of go - The ones that I have had have been fine and will keep the Allen as I like it and will sell my McCulloch one as it isn't a patch on it!

 

got to the bottom of this one - wasn't happy with it - opened the muffler hole up this morning - i'd previously cut some internal baffling but that made no difference - and it now runs like I'd expect a TD18 to - plenty of oomph in a pocket sized unit

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Not feeling shut out at all mate, just don't want to post for the sake of it, or to duplicate what some other techie has said.

 

I like to pass on useful tips, usually with pics, but lately most of my work has been run of the mill. Loads of carb rebuilds, fuel hose replacement, ignition modules etc as well as thousands of hedge cutter teeth sharpened.

 

My ears are ringing from the noise of the grinder at the end of every day, and my clothes are so full of grinding dust that they rust.:biggrin:

 

Am wondering what the science/art (if any) is behind inter changing ignition modules. Spud told me the other day that he's used a stihl module in an allen?? strimmer I think it was - is it just about - if the screw holes fit and it it'll fit into the space give it a go? is there any danger - are they all the same thing but just different shapes? - I know some people here are unlikely to be experimenting with other peoples machines but if it's the difference between a runner and an ornament I'd like to know the ground rules.

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Am wondering what the science/art (if any) is behind inter changing ignition modules. Spud told me the other day that he's used a stihl module in an allen?? strimmer I think it was - is it just about - if the screw holes fit and it it'll fit into the space give it a go? is there any danger - are they all the same thing but just different shapes? - I know some people here are unlikely to be experimenting with other peoples machines but if it's the difference between a runner and an ornament I'd like to know the ground rules.

 

I would say theres nothing to lose unless its the very latest of machines with autotune etc.

Theorectically the coil/ignition module is an amp/booster unit that amplifys current. Its about the only real electrical part on a chainsaw so its not like you will risk damage any other electrical component unlike a car (hence why I would say don't try it on autotune models etc)

If it fits try it I would say.

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