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What's on your bench today?


spudulike

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The piston ring lands are in slightly different places is the difference so will catch on the ports.

Has yours got a red or black run/kill/choke switch as a rule the red ones are 10mm and black are 12mm. If you look at your serial number if its before x29382283 its 10mm or later 12mm.

The strokes are exactly the same but cranks are actually different as the 12mm is much heavier so not as snappy throttle response.

 

Hi, thanks for the info.

 

Well it is a red switch, but serial no. is x30xxxxxx and it is a 12mm pin (on the original one I'm replacing). I knew they came in 10 and 12 mm so first thing I did was check the pin diameter when I was stripping it down (hoping for a 10mm one), as I had heard that the 10 mm ones were more desirable, for exactly the reasons you say.

 

So just so I'm clear on this, are you saying that my existing cylinder shouldn't be used if the crankcase I've ordered turns out to be a 10 mm pin?

 

Cheers

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You can use a later cylinder with a 10mm piston but not the other way around. (no to 12mm piston and 10mm cylinder)

10mm pistons and cylinders where made by mahle.

 

I would imagine your switch has been changed at some point for an earlier one. Most things are still available and not badly priced with these saws and interchangeable with the ms440.

 

Ive pretty much rebuilt mine totally including new plastics etc. Ive got a few spares but not crankcases or anything. The 10mm is a totally different saw to the 10mm in my eyes tbh. Bloody shame because I was offered a pair of new oe crankcases last month from a dealer closure for £30 but he sold them on ebay for not much more which is typical (they where 12mm) and would've been ideal for you... Atleast you have a good handle as they are the commonly broken.

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Forgot to mention - got the ported 357XP ready for a lucky Arbtalkers father and when I fired it up, instead of it being silky smooth as they normally are, there was just a bit too much vibration for my likeing.

 

Checked all the AV nounts, still not too good, noticed that when I grabbed it off the deck by the top handle it clonked a little:confused1:

 

Got it back on the bench and pushed and prodded the engine around on the static rear handle and then noticed someone had replaced one of the lower underside bolts on the top main handle with an over-long one that was protruding through the lower handle and touching the lower crankcase causing bad vibes.

 

Cut the bolt down and refitted - silky smooth AV now, just as you would expect.

 

The moral of this is to be damn careful if you fit an incorrect screw or bolt, it is easy to cause issues if you do - had one hit the flywheel on a 066 once - couldn't understand how it had suddenly locked up when the top cover went on:001_rolleyes::lol:

 

Sounds like they got the bolts muddled, should be 2 shorter ones on the underneath of the saw and 2 longer ones through the side that hold the main handle.

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You can use a later cylinder with a 10mm piston but not the other way around. (no to 12mm piston and 10mm cylinder)

10mm pistons and cylinders where made by mahle.

 

Thanks for that. I'll see where I'm up to once I've got the new crankcase and attempted a clean up on my cylinder.

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Mr Spud, sorry I'm being lazy not taken it apart yet-

 

MS200T chain brake doesn't work, handle clicks back and forth but does slow the chain down?

 

C

 

That better not be the one I serviced a while ago:blushing:

 

Snapped brake band likely to be the usual suspect - if you are stuffed - run it in and will fix FOC apart from the part:thumbup:

 

Oh...FOC=Free of Charge:thumbup1:

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