What's on your bench today?

[Rich2484]

okay, need a bit of advice.

my ms200t is not oiling properly. If you run it up with out the side cover on you can see oil coming out but i presume it is not oiling enough as the chain is running, pretty much, dry.

 

the bar is fairly new and is nice and clean so the problem goes back to the pump or filter.

the worm gear seems to be in good condition.

i have rinsed the oil tank with petrol but that did not help.

 

i have been quoted £40ish:thumbdown: so wanted some advice from the o wise ones. And does the price sound alright??

 

thanks in advance:thumbup:

 

Ok. Even know its a new bar is the oiler holes lighning up ok? Other than that is the oiler screw in the open position.

 

Failing these look into the rubber gromit thing on the pump or take the pipe off the pump and see if oil is in there and it nice and clear. Try opening the oil tank cap and blowing back down the pipe.

 

Also could be the oil tank breather issue. Take the oil cap off and run it up see if it improves. But don't get oil everywhere

[markieg31]

Ok. Even know its a new bar is the oiler holes lighning up ok? Other than that is the oiler screw in the open position.

 

Failing these look into the rubber gromit thing on the pump or take the pipe off the pump and see if oil is in there and it nice and clear. Try opening the oil tank cap and blowing back down the pipe.

 

Also could be the oil tank breather issue. Take the oil cap off and run it up see if it improves. But don't get oil everywhere

 

i will give that a go tomorrow.

 

Ideally i need the saw for a dismantle on sat but failing that i can borrow my friends 020.

[tobimax]

Firstly there is nothing wrong with old Huskys!!

But I would be ashamed to have given you that saw in its filthy state to work on! A wipe with a rag costs nothing and takes 2 mins!

[AlvinD]

<========= This what my 200T crankcase will be needing!

 

All screws are out, I've applied heat around the gasket line, given it strategically light taps with the hammer and I cannot for the love of Arborism split these halves! No fancy tools available and no access to metal/welder.

 

Does anyone have any ideas!?

[Rich2484]

Firstly there is nothing wrong with old Huskys!!

But I would be ashamed to have given you that saw in its filthy state to work on! A wipe with a rag costs nothing and takes 2 mins!

 

Well that's why it's my way now. To clean it up. It's actually dust from the shed and I'm looking forward to cleaning it up. Should look really nice exept the lack of stickers on. But the I.D plate is still there. I just havnt looked to see what model it is.

 

Still going to disinfect the bench after :001_tt2:i:biggrin:

[Rich2484]

<========= This what my 200T crankcase will be needing!

 

All screws are out, I've applied heat around the gasket line, given it strategically light taps with the hammer and I cannot for the love of Arborism split these halves! No fancy tools available and no access to metal/welder.

 

Does anyone have any ideas!?

 

Really? They normally fall apart. Please do ensure that all screws are out.

 

From memory I believe there are 8 in total.

 

Two around the crank, one at the bottom of the crank, two at the top under the front mounting on the handle, two at the front one around or under the bar tensioner area and one under it by the bottom of the dog, and one at the bottom back half near where the exhaust sits in.

 

So three around the crank casing. Two at the top by handle/earth wire, two at the front by the dogs, and one at the very bottom.

 

I clamped half the casing in a vice a gave the crank a tap with wooden mallet.

[AlvinD]

Checked too many times to count to see if all the screws are out. I put it in the vice (one half) applied heat and tapped.......no....HIT the crank with an Estwing and still won't split!

 

I'm not too worried about the crankshaft as I have another two I just want the casing lol

[Rich2484]

Unless someone has superglued the case you have a screw still in...

[AlvinD]

Found an old crankcase but the lip where the seal sits is slightly damaged. would this be scrap?

[agg221]

Ok. Home now and saw is staying put.

 

I did fire it up before I left and its the same thing. Will only start on choke then half choke then run fine. Tickover seems to have settled a bit. But stop it and have to use half choke to get it going again or hold full throttle. Just wont start on tickover.

 

Hi Rich,

 

I've been thinking about this - not from experience at all (never even looked at a 200) , but more of a thought experiment.

 

You've got three 'symptoms' identified which differ from normal:

Compression is a little low.

It needs a bit of choke to start but is fine when running.

There is no spurt of fuel when you take the fuel pipe off.

 

If it needs choke to start, it suggests there isn't enough fuel getting through on start-up. Is tuning completely standard? If so, you can reasonably say that the condition cures itself when running. If not and you are tuning rich to get normal running it suggests the issue is not transient, which in a way would help as it would make it easier to find.

 

Causes I can think of are a poor vacuum on the diaphragm pump, poor pumping action (ruled out if you've tried a known good carb) and a partial blockage in the fuel pathway.

 

You have the same symptoms with different carbs, and from the way you test pressure and vacuum there is no leak between the impulse line (pot side) and the carb boot (pot side).

 

Areas you haven't tested for sealing with the current set-up are carb boot (carb side) and impulse line (carb side). If it is either of these you could assume that, since different carbs produce the same symptoms, you have a problem with the rubber side rather than the carb side. It needn't be a split - could be a partial internal defect on the sealing face. Seems relatively unlikely, as you would probably struggle to get a seal on the carb boot with your marker pen, and on the tester on the impulse line, however if they're not sealing in quite the same location, or with matched diameters to the normal component, it could still pass testing. You could test the complete impulse line if you can pressure test through the spark plug hole, with the carb off but connected to the impulse line. You couldn't directly test the carb/carb boot seal, but a good smear of grease over the interface would temporarily seal it, so if it ran normally after applying this you could reasonably infer it was the problem. However, this would be a consistent weakening of the mix, so is unlikely to be the issue as you could tune it out by tuning rich.

 

If it's a fuel flow issue which is consistent with different carbs (particularly if one is known good), it suggests it's not the carb. This leaves the tank and the fuel hose/filter. If the tank breather is fine, there's nothing else to test in the tank. Have you tried a different fuel hose and filter? I can see it would be possible to have a manufacturing error here which left a 'flappy bit' (technical term) of rubber in the bore which took a bit of 'pull' to move out of the way, which may not be achieved when pulling over but would be easier once running. A manufacturing error in the gauze of the filter may create similar symptoms, but is less likely as it would tend to be more of a consistent blockage of certain holes in the gauze. These latter would also be consistent with the lack of fuel spurt.

 

Hope the above thoughts are of some use!

 

Alec