What's on your bench today?

[mikerecike]

Will it run if you don't fully close the fuel cap?

[GardenKit]

Well, there are a lot of techies here, but I will add my thoughts.

 

The rubbery inlet manifold thing can split allowing air in, but I am sure you have checked this. But I have also found that these rubbery things harden with age, and do not always reseal against the pot flange after they have been disturbed. A little sealer will prove this, but should not be used as a proper fix, the boot should seal on its own.

 

Good luck Rich.

[spudulike]

Rich - if you have done all I have suggested, it is now running beutifully:lol:

 

If you have tried a number of carbs, including known good ones then it can't be the carb.

 

Have you checked the positioning of the carb boot, if it has rotated round when you put the boot/manifold retainer on, it may not line up with the carb impulse hole correctly! I have had this in the early days!!!

 

Have you tried disconecting the kill wire?? You could have HT leakage on the plug, the cap or HT lead - possible but not had this ever!

 

Have you tried a different coil - I have never had one go on an MS200 but again possible!

 

The key hasn't busted in the flywheel has it - it will give a flubby bogging running engine with possible backfiring.

 

There aint a lot left now bud, shame you aren't closer as I love a challange:lol:

 

Usually new seals and a carb clean and these little saws sing!!

[GardenKit]

Well, there are a lot of techies here, but I will add my thoughts.

 

The rubbery inlet manifold thing can split allowing air in, but I am sure you have checked this. But I have also found that these rubbery things harden with age, and do not always reseal against the pot flange after they have been disturbed. A little sealer will prove this, but should not be used as a proper fix, the boot should seal on its own.

 

Good luck Rich.

Sorry Rich, scratch my last post. Your pressure test would have shown this up.

(a vac test however would not)

[Ray1]

Its not got an American exhaust on it has it? Spark screen blocked?

[Rich2484]

Many thanks people for the help.

 

This is why I love arbtalk.

 

Spud a challenge is not the word I would use but ok.....

 

Ok so I will endevour to answer the above posts so bear with me please.

 

Ok so here is the full story on this saw. It came to me as non running, so a change of carb to eliminate carb issue and it didn't sort it. The saw was not running unless loads of fuel was poured down the carb. A pressure test resulted in the seals being gone. When I started to strip down to get the seals out after I removed them there was significant play in the crank both left and right and a slight knock up and down.

 

So I replaced the bearings and put the crank case back together, before the seals went in the movement on he crank had stopped with the new bearings. There was a small amount of transfer under the exhaust port but NOT enough to worry me about the piston or pot so cleaned it off. Although the comp is a little bit on the low side it's not enough to stop it running.

 

New seals in and tested the saw, both vac and pressure test came beck good. No leaks at all with whatever way I rotated the crank or tried to move it about in any position, I got very anal about trying to move the crank while under the tests and stopped myself from grabbing the pliers to try and wiggle the crank (very technical term that spud ).

 

So assuming that was all fine I re assembled the saw, I then had the running problems I have described. So carb off and two carbs to test this out. All came back with the same problems.

 

So I retested the vac and pressure. The way I go in for the tests is through the impulse line. So spark plug in, exhaust port blocked and carb boot on and blocked. This way as I see it both the impulse line and carb boot are tested for leaks aswell as the caseing.

 

These tests again came back fine. Tank vent vac tested and working as it should. Fuel line also replaced with another to test his out. Again was fine. So pressure tested the carb and it was working as it should. Until....

 

I looked at the meter valve and adjusted this up a bit after checking its alignment with the carb body. It was a little bit low. Put the saw back together and it will run on choke then half choke and start up. It will then run on tickover and rev up and down (and it really revs up well) but stop it and you will get it trying to fire up on tickover but just not manage it. But go to half choke and it will fire up fine then run ok. The tickover is a little bit lumpy but will rev up fine.

 

So after adjusting the metering valve it will run ver well on high revs.

 

Ive looked at the carb boot position and it is right, also looked at the position of the impulse hole on boot to carb and it is also in the right position.

 

The ht lead is also in very good condition with no marks or holes in it, and is giving the best possible spark it can. Opened up the gap on plug a long way and the spark will jump the gap.

 

I've spent the whole day on this saw so its been a loss today. But it's just he way it goes sometimes.

 

And no spark screen in exhaust. I've cleaned the exhaust out aswell.

 

But I've got no intention in giving up on this saw.

[GardenKit]

Hamlet time ( remember the old cigar ads?)

[markieg31]

i had the same/ similar problem on an older 357xp.

 

it ran spot on, never missed a beat until i changed the fuel tank/ back handle.

after the swap it would only start if i poured in petrol through the carb and would only run if i had it full throttle. As soon as you let off it died. tryed two different carbs and had the same problem. took it took local tech and he sorted but couldnt remember what the problem was. on the receipt it had a new crank seal so not sure what the prob was

[Rich2484]

Ok. Home now and saw is staying put.

 

I did fire it up before I left and its the same thing. Will only start on choke then half choke then run fine. Tickover seems to have settled a bit. But stop it and have to use half choke to get it going again or hold full throttle. Just wont start on tickover.

 

I did get a chance to look over a saw that wa son the list for today.

 

An old husky, yes that right I have a husky on my bench, will need to disinfect it after......

 

It has been sat in the owners shed for a year or two, his son wants to get into loggin and he wants to give him this saw to use.

 

So wants it cleaned and checked over.

 

Spark is ok. Not brilliant but ok. Put some fuel in it and it started well on choke then fired up properly. After a short while of running would die on full throttle, so got to strip it down and clean it out. I'm expecting diagrams to get destroyed as they normally do and fuel lines to crack.

 

But until I strip it down who knows, could do with w little bit of luck.

 

And worst of all is I didn't even get a chance to carry on with the ported dolmar....

[markieg31]

okay, need a bit of advice.

my ms200t is not oiling properly. If you run it up with out the side cover on you can see oil coming out but i presume it is not oiling enough as the chain is running, pretty much, dry.

 

the bar is fairly new and is nice and clean so the problem goes back to the pump or filter.

the worm gear seems to be in good condition.

i have rinsed the oil tank with petrol but that did not help.

 

i have been quoted £40ish:thumbdown: so wanted some advice from the o wise ones. And does the price sound alright??

 

thanks in advance:thumbup: