What's on your bench today?

[Rich2484]

it runs ok when its hot ????

i would pressure test it start from there make SURE no airleaks

check the fuel lines out and fuel filter

then look at the carb

the dark lord will be along soon to tell u more about carb

as he will tell u i ent that good with carbs hey spud

 

Fixed that for you.

 

A pressure and vac test would be a starting point. But I take it you don't have those tools?

 

A comp test is also good.

 

Has the carb got the accelerator pump in it? Have you got a known good carb you can try on it?

[burrell_]

ent done that but i put 2-stroke in the chain oil on a 200t spud sold me dont tell him shhhh

if u done that strip the fuel lines of wash them out fuel tank as well

strip the carb leave carb in meths all nite and clean out with carb cleaner before u put it back together

see what happens

oh and change ur fuel filter

[Le Sanglier]

807962]it runs ok when its hot ????[/b]

i would pressure test it start from there make SHORE no airleaks

check the fuel lines out and fuel filter

then look at the carb

the dark lord will be along soon to tell u more about carb

as he will tell u i ent that good with carbs hey spud

 

Not hot really, this can go on for an hour or more then, I restart it and like magic it's perfect:confused1:

[spudulike]

ent done that but i put 2-stroke in the chain oil on a 200t spud sold me dont tell him shhhh

if u done that strip the fuel lines of wash them out fuel tank as well

strip the carb leave carb in meths all nite and clean out with carb cleaner before u put it back together

see what happens

oh and change ur fuel filter

 

You burk - go back to making cake, you are good at that:lol: That is a nice saw as well:lol:

 

The easiest way to analyse this is to try a known good carb, the zama carb on the MS200 is a tempremental little critter, they take a lot of fettling and a lot of it is difficult and fiddly.

 

You may also have a leak in the impulse line, dodgy crank seals or many other faults.

 

I always pressure and vac test these saws to make sure that the integrity of the crankcase is good and then do a number of fixes on the carb - I still get some that won't lie down and be fixed on the first pass but they do eventually give it up and behave:thumbup:

[Rich2484]

You burk - go back to making cake, you are good at that:lol: That WASis a nice saw as well:lol:

 

The easiest way to analyse this is to try a known good carb, the zama carb on the MS200 is a tempremental little critter, they take a lot of fettling and a lot of it is difficult and fiddly.

 

You may also have a leak in the impulse line, dodgy crank seals or many other faults.

 

I always pressure and vac test these saws to make sure that the integrity of the crankcase is good and then do a number of fixes on the carb - I still get some that won't lie down and be fixed on the first pass but they do eventually give it up and behave:thumbup:

 

Fixed that for you.

[swinny]

anyone know a good fix for the rear tank handle where it meets the flat bit at the bottom... where screw goes in to hold the black plastic bit on...

 

do you know where i mean lol

[Le Sanglier]

You burk - go back to making cake, you are good at that:lol: That is a nice saw as well:lol:

 

The easiest way to analyse this is to try a known good carb, the zama carb on the MS200 is a tempremental little critter, they take a lot of fettling and a lot of it is difficult and fiddly.

 

You may also have a leak in the impulse line, dodgy crank seals or many other faults.

I always pressure and vac test these saws to make sure that the integrity of the crankcase is good and then do a number of fixes on the carb - I still get some that won't lie down and be fixed on the first pass but they do eventually give it up and behave:thumbup:

 

If I had to put money on it I would say crank seals, the saw is 30 odd months old, 'bout right this is my 5th or so 020/200

Will a comp test tell for sure? how in the name of the hoary hosts of horux can they leak then close:confused1:

[burrell_]

still is a nice saw mate keep earning me money

ps with the chain oil being so thick at the mo the fuel just thinned it out a bit

still works whats wrong with that

[spudulike]

If I had to put money on it I would say crank seals, the saw is 30 odd months old, 'bout right this is my 5th or so 020/200

Will a comp test tell for sure? how in the name of the hoary hosts of horux can they leak then close:confused1:

 

I would say that 30 months is a bit young for seals, in my experience, they go from a rubber state to a rock hard ceramic like hardness in time.

 

I have done pretty much successful vacuum tests and on moving the crank or pushing on it, got a leak and a bad one when these seals go hard.

 

A compression test will only let you know that your top end (piston, rings and bore) are sealing well. The pressure/vacuum test ensures the bottom end holds pressure and vacuum ensuring that air isnt being drawn in via anywhere but the carb on the upward stroke or leaking out on the downward stroke.

 

30 months old is a difficult one - it should have a decent carb at that age and the rubber parts should be OK - have you checked the gauze filter in the pumping section of the carb - that can give issues. Worth checking the tank vent as well!

[spudulike]

Back to the 254XP, got a pic of the busted Clutch leg, unfortunately the spare one off one of the other machines is pretty worn.

 

The piston had a chip out of the bottom skirt and a couple of grooves on the inlet side so have fitted a new one.

 

It fires up and runs fine - just need to see if the owner wants a new clutch fitted and then a quick tune and all will be good:thumbup: