What's on your bench today?

[Rich2484]

I'm afraid I can't advise on the carb being sent away as I've never sent one off. I normally test them or clean them out myself. Or I try a known working carb and that eliminates the carb for me.

 

Sorry if its shear ignorance on my part but what saw is it?

[AlvinD]

Hi Rich, it's a ms200t. The site I mentioned is this STIHL MS200 / MS200T ZAMA CARBURETTOR REPAIR 020 / 020T CARB CARBURATEUR | eBay

[Rich2484]

What's wrong with an 020 t carb??

 

Could look into the carb fix but IMO its not really worth the hassle. Spud may disagree. with me but the 020t carb is more reliable than the original 200t carb.

 

I have looked into that site from eBay before but never used them. Didn't really think sending it off only to be told its junked as they have cleaned it and it hasn't sorted the problem.

 

You need to pressure and vac test the saw to be sure the rest of the saw is good. This test will tell you if its worth looking into the carb or not.

 

The pressure test without the carb on will give indication to crank seals, bearings, and gasket joints are ok.

[spudulike]

OK, looks like we are talking about an MS200T, forget the comment about the throttle valve, the mechanism is pretty reliable - the throttle valve is the disc that opens and closes to let the fuel/air vapour through and a sticky throttle can cause the revs to hang on when the throttle is closed.

 

Nothing will work as well as a pressure and vac test to diagnose issues!

 

The MS200T carb has a few issues - the £25 fix may work but have no idea as to what the sellers skills are! The 020T carb is generally a more reliable carb.

 

It would be worth trying a known good carb on the saw!

[mikerecike]

It's one of the later Danarm 55s - they were originally yellow and black (all metal), then dark red, then metallic blue and finally yellow plastic, so I would guess early '80s?

 

The information on your bar - it's currently running 0.58" width drive links on the chain, and 3/8" pitch. The 72 dl is drive links, so the length of the chain to order. The rest is the Sandvik part number.

 

I would definitely be looking for a shorter bar - it's not that big a saw so probably 16" max. A replacement bar will say how many drive links you need on it. I wouldn't change the 3/8" pitch as you need this to mate with the sprocket, so unless this is also shot I'd leave well alone. You can change the drive link width if necessary - 3/8" pitch chain is commonly available in 0.53", 0.058" and 0.063".

 

For reference, you can get bars for the Danarm 1-36 at 12", 14" and 16" new from Oregon, so it may be worth establishing if they use the same mounts.

 

Out of interest, what is wrong with your bar?

 

Alec

 

 

Hi Alec

 

Thanks for that. I've emailed Mr Solutions to see if they can find a 14" 3/8 bar that will fit. It's a 7 tooth sprocket.

 

Is chain gauge just about how wide a cut is made?

 

Re: what's wrong with the bar - it's been overly pressed in one place - see pics below. I'm looking forward to using this saw. Cheers, Mike

 

 

 

[Eddy_t]

 

Is chain gauge just about how wide a cut is made?

 

 

Chain gauge is how wide the drive links are between the rails

[GardenKit]

 

the £25 fix may work but have no idea as to what the sellers skills are! The 020T carb is generally a more reliable carb.

 

 

I'm with Spud on this.

 

I have no experience of this guy on ebay, so I am not knocking his skill, but...

 

I am pretty good on carbs myself, but would not want to send one to a customer with the promise it would work unless I had fitted it to a saw and tested it first. I have sometimes overhauled carbs several times and they still don't work.

 

This guy may indeed work for a lot less than me, but i can't see how anyone can properly overhaul a carb (which has to have a new carb kit) and fit it to a saw for testing, then remove it, pack it and post it, for £25.00

 

I would be wary,but this could be unfair, so I am also interested to hear from any forum member who has used this service.

[agg221]

Hi Alec

 

Thanks for that. I've emailed Mr Solutions to see if they can find a 14" 3/8 bar that will fit. It's a 7 tooth sprocket.

 

Is chain gauge just about how wide a cut is made?

 

Re: what's wrong with the bar - it's been overly pressed in one place - see pics below. I'm looking forward to using this saw. Cheers, Mike

 

Hi Mike,

 

As Eddy says, chain gauge is the width of the bit of the chain (drive link) that runs in the bar, i.e. how wide the gap in the bar is if someone hasn't done something nasty to it. The actual width of the teeth (cut) will vary slightly, but not much in the grand scheme of things.

 

I have no idea how someone would do what they have to that bar!

 

By the way, the number of teeth on the sprocket doesn't matter so much as the pitch. You could have a 7-tooth sprocket or an 8-tooth sprocket but so long as they were both 3/8" pitch the chain would still run properly. The more teeth, the more chain links pulled round per rev. of the saw, so the faster the chain runs (but with less torque).

 

Alec

[mikerecike]

Hi Mike,

 

As Eddy says, chain gauge is the width of the bit of the chain (drive link) that runs in the bar, i.e. how wide the gap in the bar is if someone hasn't done something nasty to it. The actual width of the teeth (cut) will vary slightly, but not much in the grand scheme of things.

 

I have no idea how someone would do what they have to that bar!

 

By the way, the number of teeth on the sprocket doesn't matter so much as the pitch. You could have a 7-tooth sprocket or an 8-tooth sprocket but so long as they were both 3/8" pitch the chain would still run properly. The more teeth, the more chain links pulled round per rev. of the saw, so the faster the chain runs (but with less torque).

 

Alec

 

Thanks Alec - I've learned something - much appreciated

 

Mike

[spudulike]

I'm with Spud on this.

 

I have no experience of this guy on ebay, so I am not knocking his skill, but...

 

I am pretty good on carbs myself, but would not want to send one to a customer with the promise it would work unless I had fitted it to a saw and tested it first. I have sometimes overhauled carbs several times and they still don't work.

 

This guy may indeed work for a lot less than me, but i can't see how anyone can properly overhaul a carb (which has to have a new carb kit) and fit it to a saw for testing, then remove it, pack it and post it, for £25.00

 

I would be wary,but this could be unfair, so I am also interested to hear from any forum member who has used this service.

 

The carb kit would be £10-15 and then just stripping the carb and cleaning it would be another hour, the cleaning materials......

 

£25 - you do get what you pay for so it would be interesting to see what the guy does for the money!