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spudulike

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Been a mixed bag over the last couple of days, firstly Windfalls MS390 - took these photos for those who don't understand the cconcept of clam style engines - the first two pictures will explain them.

 

The second is a MS460 - did a pressure check, noticed a very slight air leak that became worse once the oiler pinion was off - glad I found it, new seals now fitted and a pressure check to confirm they are sealing correctly. Got a vacuum tester on its way so may test it out on this saw if it arrives in time:thumbup:

 

Just changed the flywheel seal as well although it wasn't leaking, it is more common for the clutch side to leak!

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Bit of a change today, been working on a Piaggio Zip scooter - it has been standing for a year and wouldnt rev up, cleaned the air filter and gave tha carb a tweak and a bit of cleaner and it fired right up.

 

The other one was this Honda mower, the clutch wasn't engaging correctly - have had to strip out the clutch and roller assembly to find the small actuation arm has broken - bugger, an expensive stripdown for a small part!

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MS171 that was accidentally dropped whilst running into a ditch full of water. Not sure if it just shorted out or if water got into the piston as air filter was soaked but no water in carb. Will strip it fully tomorrow to check the damage and dry it and spray with WD40 to get rid of the extra water.

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MS171 that was accidentally dropped whilst running into a ditch full of water. Not sure if it just shorted out or if water got into the piston as air filter was soaked but no water in carb. Will strip it fully tomorrow to check the damage and dry it and spray with WD40 to get rid of the extra water.

 

My advice is to make sure the crankcase has no water in it - I would drain the fuel and make sure it doesn't contain water - it will fall to the bottom of the fuel, make sure you spray the clutch with WD40 as well as a little down the bore and get it started ASAP and warmed up thoroughly as any water will rust bearings very quickly.

 

Dry out that air filter and hope it survived - my only repair faiulure was a water damaged saw - the owner had left a mugfull of water in the crankcase and it had welded the piston to the bore. I did free it up and it ran for a few seconds but was knackered due to a damaged bore:thumbdown:

 

The electrics are potted and are pretty resilient against fluid.

 

Good luck

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My advice is to make sure the crankcase has no water in it - I would drain the fuel and make sure it doesn't contain water - it will fall to the bottom of the fuel, make sure you spray the clutch with WD40 as well as a little down the bore and get it started ASAP and warmed up thoroughly as any water will rust bearings very quickly.

 

Dry out that air filter and hope it survived - my only repair faiulure was a water damaged saw - the owner had left a mugfull of water in the crankcase and it had welded the piston to the bore. I did free it up and it ran for a few seconds but was knackered due to a damaged bore:thumbdown:

 

The electrics are potted and are pretty resilient against fluid.

 

Good luck

 

I shall be stripping it completely tomorrow. If i manage to move the piston by hand so the inlet to the crank case is open and let the water drain out that way. Would that be sufficiently empty then put it on a hot radiator for 48 hours to dry out?

 

It is a 1993 saw so if it is a total loss then no biggie as we can buy a new one.

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I shall be stripping it completely tomorrow. If i manage to move the piston by hand so the inlet to the crank case is open and let the water drain out that way. Would that be sufficiently empty then put it on a hot radiator for 48 hours to dry out?

 

It is a 1993 saw so if it is a total loss then no biggie as we can buy a new one.

 

Sounds like a plan - drain the fluids and leave it upside down as you describe for a day. I have had the clutch seize by getting wet in the past so it is probably worth getting some WD40 on this component and soon.

 

I reckon it will be fine, a few drops of water will get pushed out of a hot engine pretty quickly so getting it running and hot with known good fuel is probably more important than getting it 100% completely dry but is definitely worth getting it upside down with the plug out and yanking it over 10 - 20 times.

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Sounds like a plan - drain the fluids and leave it upside down as you describe for a day. I have had the clutch seize by getting wet in the past so it is probably worth getting some WD40 on this component and soon.

 

I reckon it will be fine, a few drops of water will get pushed out of a hot engine pretty quickly so getting it running and hot with known good fuel is probably more important than getting it 100% completely dry but is definitely worth getting it upside down with the plug out and yanking it over 10 - 20 times.

 

Wil be doing that tomorrow morning as its going to be a wet morning and have a nice dry workshop complete with airline so i can blast any excess water out and give it a really good blow through. Will remove the tank and drain it completely. Will flush the chain oil tank while i'm at it.

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