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spudulike

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Im no spud but you will need to block the crank with ether a piston stop or, what i use, a length of string in the spark plug hole. you also may be able to do it with the chain brake on?

 

EDIT - no thats nonsense! sorry

 

Flywheel is normal thread so anti to loosen, and you will need a flywheel extractor to get it off. the extractor threads onto the flywheel and pushes it of the crank. you can do it with a screwdriver behind it and tap it off. i find some easier to do than other this way so got myself an extractor.

 

also never needed an air gun, good job seen as i dont have one :-)

 

ric

Edited by Ricbob
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WYK

 

just starting to look into porting now and finding the stuff on the forum really interesting.

quick question i see you have adjusted the high (top and bottom) of the transfer port, this will change the timing, will it not? what affect will this have and what else do you need to do to keep everything else working together ie inlet and outlet ports?

 

Thanks

Ric

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Im no spud but you will need to block the crank with ether a piston stop or, what i use, a length of string in the spark plug hole. you also may be able to do it with the chain brake on?

 

EDIT - no thats nonsense! sorry

 

Flywheel is normal thread so anti to loosen, and you will need a flywheel extractor to get it off. the extractor threads onto the flywheel and pushes it of the crank. you can do it with a screwdriver behind it and tap it off. i find some easier to do than other this way so got myself an extractor.

 

also never needed an air gun, good job seen as i dont have one :-)

 

ric

 

Exactly what he said:thumbup: some Stihls have threads on the inside of the flywheel allowing for the Stihl puller tool to be used which works rather well, I sometimes use the screw driver method on flywheels where the crankshaft has a bit of endfloat - MS200Ts pop off nicely like this.

 

Also got a small set of pullers that work well!

 

Normal thread on flywheels - righty tighty........:laugh1:

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Exactly what he said:thumbup: some Stihls have threads on the inside of the flywheel allowing for the Stihl puller tool to be used which works rather well, I sometimes use the screw driver method on flywheels where the crankshaft has a bit of endfloat - MS200Ts pop off nicely like this.

 

Also got a small set of pullers that work well!

 

Normal thread on flywheels - righty tighty........:laugh1:

 

Im no spud but you will need to block the crank with ether a piston stop or, what i use, a length of string in the spark plug hole. you also may be able to do it with the chain brake on?

 

EDIT - no thats nonsense! sorry

 

Flywheel is normal thread so anti to loosen, and you will need a flywheel extractor to get it off. the extractor threads onto the flywheel and pushes it of the crank. you can do it with a screwdriver behind it and tap it off. i find some easier to do than other this way so got myself an extractor.

 

also never needed an air gun, good job seen as i dont have one :-)

 

ric

 

thanks guys. sounds like is a job for som1 else... spud this was in relation to the backfireing of the ms261

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thanks guys. sounds like is a job for som1 else... spud this was in relation to the backfireing of the ms261

 

Yes - same method, it sounds like it may be a little loose anyway, if it has the threaded inside (where the recoil catches) you can use the Stihl removal tool other than that, the screwdriver method will probably work - just check there is a bit of endfloat in the crank, tap the screwdriver in behind it and whack the end of the crankshaft with a hard mallet - don't be tempted to use a hammer - it will mushroom the end and cause all sorts of issues.

 

You will need to work the broken key out of the crank and the flywheel - small screwdriver and small hammer will do it, then fit the new one, key in the flywheel and do it up again.

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some intresting pics for spud first one is the 024 pistion with 1 ring

 

Interesting one - only seen two ring 024s, that hedge trimmer looks like a kawasaki engine to me - I can check my non working strimmer if you like - the coil is shagged but the P&C are fine!

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