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spudulike

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Had a 560XP in with a buggered spark plug hole. The plug is M10 x 1.0 so didn't have the kit to do it - I am well covered on the M14 ones so agreed to do it for the price of the tools plus circa £20 to cover a little of my time - that way I have the kit for future!

 

I got the V-coil kit, good quality and made in Germany, the helicoil lengths are measured in "diameters" - 1d = 10mm, 1.5d = 15mm - the length I needed was 12.5mm so took a 1.5d insert and lopped off a couple of coils and ground the top flat - not really necessary but get a little anal on attention to detail.

 

The tap is the type that has a taper guide on the end of it leading in to a reamer and then the final tap to take the insert. Don't get confused with the cheap crap ones - I need to use decent grade taps to get strength out of the finished item.

 

I also use a Loctite high grade thread lock when putting these in, many don't but I like them to go in once and never come out and the cost/time is negligible.

 

The pics are of the tap, two insert lengths, damaged plug hole, tapping in progress, tapped hole and then repaired hole. You wouldnt know the insert had been fitted and will be damn strong in use.

 

I finally get a bit of heat with a plumbers lamp on the cylinder to make the Loctite go off.

Nice one Steve!

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I finally get a bit of heat with a plumbers lamp on the cylinder to make the Loctite go off.

 

Looks like a good mend, good quality tap.

 

Loctite blue and red thread lock both cure in the absence of air.

 

"The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces"

 

I would not heat it up, just leave over night.

 

I am fairly sure that they recommend heating up for disassembly.

 

H-A

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Stupid botex timber grab.

 

So far it has failed twice on me.

 

Going to go back to my thread about them. Silly way the pipes are run into it. They just get trashed.

 

 

So is there anything you like currently rich? :)

On my bench currently is my 08s waiting a tune up, 346 new brake handle fitted, just needs retuning, 254 waiting on a carb kit to be fitted, need to go to the post office to pick up a piston for a cut-off saw that has seized, I just need time to do it all now!

 

 

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Don't know if I'm supposed to post into this elite sub-forum but on my bench today is a Walbro 35B with a silly, plastic fast tick over control over that's too worn to work. It appears on Walbro's exploded drawing but is not listed as a part. Do you redhot boys have a workaround for this really annoying problem? Thanks in advance!

 

The carb is a Walbro HDA 35b, give Hugo at Rowena Motors an email or bell, give him the part number if you have it - I think it is 501 79 06-01and see if he has any ideas - they are Walbro agents and are damn helpful:thumbup:

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Looks like a good mend, good quality tap.

 

Loctite blue and red thread lock both cure in the absence of air.

 

"The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces"

 

I would not heat it up, just leave over night.

 

I am fairly sure that they recommend heating up for disassembly.

 

H-A

 

This is Loctite 270 green - the modern replacement for red:thumbup:

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This is Loctite 270 green - the modern replacement for red:thumbup:

 

270 is the one that I use, it is good stuff.:biggrin:

 

270 also "cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces", and heat up to take apart.

 

http://www.reyher.de/download/Technical_data_sheet_Loctite_270.pdf

 

How hot does a cylinder get?

 

H-A

loc.jpg.493b899cc11cd213ea56c70d1a08d195.jpg

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270 is the one that I use, it is good stuff.:biggrin:

 

270 also "cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces", and heat up to take apart.

 

http://www.reyher.de/download/Technical_data_sheet_Loctite_270.pdf

 

How hot does a cylinder get?

 

H-A

 

140 - 170, used it on one that had a loose insert from anothers repair and it is solid, many months later - good stuff IMO:thumbup:

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