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What's on your bench today?


spudulike

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will see. i havnt got any timber big enough to test it out on. only small stuff compared to an 880. :001_rolleyes::lol::lol::lol:

 

need some big red woods to fell with it just to make sure:thumbup:

 

it powers up fine, did run the tip of the bar into a bit but couldnt tell. the coil is now 3 paper thickness away from wheel.

 

had a very good phone call today......

 

person. "do i know what the torque is for an 090 head?"

 

me "not off the top of my head sir, will have to look at the manual for you, if you would hold on for a minute i will check or i will call you back."

 

person, "what kind of saw mechanic are you? you dont even know the torque settings for a saw? think i will go to someone who does know, you sound like you dont know anything"

 

didnt even get a chance to give a reply......:001_rolleyes::sneaky2::sneaky2:

 

Sorry Rich, I won't phone you again:lol::001_tt2:

 

Sounds like a Muppet - you just crank the clinder down going diagonally on the bolts and then use normal engineers feel to get the point that is tight enough but not too tight so something breaks:thumbup:

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Mission accomplished, after an aweful lot of swearing!

Undid that clip with a carb screwdriver

ImageUploadedByArbtalk1381863204.367136.jpg.b4dece371fa27c1d6844ab330f84426a.jpg

ImageUploadedByArbtalk1381863227.767914.jpg.95d49139b2f4f2a00a02e4aef286f228.jpg

Right, there are 3 sprung cylinder bearings per clip-ring, the first clips into the pump, remove that, the bearings and TINY springs! Then remove a washer, and the next ring to free the pump diaphragm rod, replace, then for the fun bit...

To replace each ring, you have to force the bearings into the springs and shove the ring back on, whilst locating it in the slot for the ring, simultaneously... Sounds easy eh? Try doing it for both! Oh and if you don't keep the pressure on the bearings, the spring shoots out, which move like a flea on speed, anyway, all back together now, I'll run it tomorrow, because if it doesn't work tonight, I'll 'fix' it with a lump hammer.

 

 

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sorted the 230 out today. meter valve was leaking and the end had worn, replaced and reset arm hieght. all good now. but compression is down to around 140-145 psi when hot so will need replacing soon. its used behind the chipper.

 

looked at the 880 aswell. nothing wrong with flywheel key or coil. the coil was a little bit close to the flywheel as i couldnt get a piece of paper in the gap. so reset the gap. and managed to start it without ripping my arm off.

 

Rich the 230 doesn't run much more compression than that so don't panic to much. That's actually not to bad a figure. New they only tend to be around 155psi! The 210's are even less albeit the same engine with a 4mm shorter con rod so you can imagine how low they are. (normally about 125psi)

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Hi all considering whether to sell my ms290 in almost new condition and getting a tophandled saw. What do you reckon I could get for it? Its around 6 years old (I think, without checking the sticker) and needs a new chain, which will only be its 3rd from new.

Other option is can I get a little bit more power from it without much bother? After being used to 260's and 361's it seems very heavy for what poke it has.

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Anybody know the part number for the carb adjusting tool for a Husqvarna 142 please? And the factory settings too? :001_smile:

 

Just start at one turn out on each. I usually take the carb off, remove the screws and then slot them:thumbup:

 

I did see a "poor mans adjuster" made from some coat hanger wire and a cable connector crimp - like a spade terminal crimp but with a wire crimp both ends - not tried it yet!

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Rich the 230 doesn't run much more compression than that so don't panic to much. That's actually not to bad a figure. New they only tend to be around 155psi! The 210's are even less albeit the same engine with a 4mm shorter con rod so you can imagine how low they are. (normally about 125psi)

 

Pretty much same as my opinion - I have fitted new pistons in 021s before and only got 130psi so it isn't bad IMO. Some saws just don't make top compression even when 100% condition.

 

One tip is to give one hard pull on the first pull of the compression check - it should be 1/2 of the maximum compression achievable or more. This is a good indicator as to whether the piston is shot.

 

Just be careful on some high comp saws as it does have a tendency to bugger the Schrader valve!

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