What's on your bench today?

[AlvinD]

I've got on my bench today my MS200T rebuild. Placed the crankcase in the freezer for an hour or so, took it out. Removed the seals and heated the bearings up.with a heat gun and banged them out with a socket head. This time no damage to any edges or lips (well chuffed ).

 

Just waiting on the seals and bearings from MisterSolutions arriving any day now, crank going back in is sound. Crankcases all nice and clean

 

The failure on this crankcase was the bearing on the right. The one on the left was still sound. Going to be abit of a riddle trying to put all wires and ignition back in correctly from memory.

[AlvinD]

Ipad wouldn't let me upload more than one pic

[Rich2484]

I've got on my bench today my MS200T rebuild. Placed the crankcase in the freezer for an hour or so, took it out. Removed the seals and heated the bearings up.with a heat gun and banged them out with a socket head. This time no damage to any edges or lips (well chuffed ).

 

Just waiting on the seals and bearings from MisterSolutions arriving any day now, crank going back in is sound. Crankcases all nice and clean

 

The failure on this crankcase was the bearing on the right. The one on the left was still sound. Going to be abit of a riddle trying to put all wires and ignition back in correctly from memory.

 

Wires are easy, there is only one troublesome one. The one that goes to the front of the handle. Through the crank casing. This is easy with a hard piece of wire held in place with a bit of grease while reassembling the case. Easy peazy. :lol:

[spudulike]

I'm trying to retune it, when I cleaned carb and reset it to factory settings the screws were about 2 1/2 - 3 turns out, there is no gasket, it's like a rubbery glue, I assume that's the liquid gasket spud mentions, I've just gotta retune it now, probably shouldn't have messed with the carb as much, got it idling now, I will just have to rich it up a bit and go from there

 

Oh and air filter needs a damn good clean!

 

 

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The 236 is a clam type crank case, it will need to be cleaned and re-sealed with a liquid gasket compound otherwise you will get bad airleaks.

 

Not sure how you managed to get that compression but 210 will not stop it idleing, my 357XP runs 200psi with no issues on the idle and some old school domed piston saws can be 250psi and run fine.

 

Sounds like a possible airleak or carb issue.

 

Not sure of the standard carb settings on these machines but if they are over standard settings by 1/2 a turn or more - expect an air leak.

[spudulike]

Been lurking a long time but decided its time to start and get a few posts up. On my workbench this week is a husky 345 for rebuild after bearing failure on clutch side. A vintage Stihl 041 with no spark. Turned out to be just dirty points. Cleaned up well and fitted a new genuine 25" bar and chisel chain. And finally an 025 with erratic idle trouble. I have done carb, washed and new kit including needle. Re gaped coil, checked muffler and compression. Pulled her down and found crank seals very loose fit on shaft so ordered some new ones and that should cure that. All 3 will be for sale by nest week and start again fresh.

 

Welcome ...345s are good little saws - fast cutters too when set up right!

[spudulike]

Well the MS650 ignition timing is at 23 degrees advance from TDC - just got to replicate that on the 066 now:blushing:

[afro reductions]

I'm lost. Do you mean the buffer by the bottom of the pull start or the bottom of the carb area???

 

If its the pull start assembly just remove that and use a 19mm open ended spanner to remove it.

 

If its carb area, remove the bottom mount above with stihl screw driver in hole in handle, remove the chain cover and remove the stihl screw in buffer, then remove the earth screw,

Remove the carb and the spacers, one round on in boot and one around the boot, undo stihl screw in the buffer under the carb area, pull handle back and up ensuring the boot stays in place and doesn't come out with handle.

 

Where abouts are you by the way. Could be a techy round the corner.

 

Sorry, Its the buffer at the bottom of the pull start... I did try to get at it but removing the pull start housing and bottom screws didnt do it, I'm in Brighton btw, im up for taking it to someone, but if i can do it myself i could do with the monies...

[Rich2484]

Sorry, Its the buffer at the bottom of the pull start... I did try to get at it but removing the pull start housing and bottom screws didnt do it, I'm in Brighton btw, im up for taking it to someone, but if i can do it myself i could do with the monies...

 

Ok then as per my first part of post. Remove the pull start, at the bottom of the buffer, against body of saw there is a piece of metal plate, this has flat parts on each side of it. This is a 19mm spanner or adjustable spanner on it. Looks like a washer with flat sides ground off it. It may take some doing if its been on there a long time. If the buffer is knackerd remove all the rubber bit and you should see it. For the handle side stihl screw in end of handle, looking at it form the side sw upright, there is another flat part the other side of handle for 19mm spanner.

[spudulike]

Sorry, Its the buffer at the bottom of the pull start... I did try to get at it but removing the pull start housing and bottom screws didnt do it, I'm in Brighton btw, im up for taking it to someone, but if i can do it myself i could do with the monies...

 

MS200 - pretty simple job, as Rich says, take the torx 27 screw out of the lower handle and then the AV mount will either unscrew by hand or I use a pair of long nose pliers on the thin steel plate between the AV rubber and the saw crankcase to unscrew the AV from the crankcase - if you have the new one, you will see what we mean.

 

As far as the blower goes, the bubble either needs replacing or can be cleared in a decent Ultrasonic Cleaner - the carb fault also sounds like the carb needs a good clean - it may be just woodchip in the small gauze filter under the carb top cover - the one with the single screw holding it on but could also be petrol residue/resin in the jets which is a carb cleaner or ultrasonic cleaner job.

 

Worth looking at the fuel pipes and filter at the same time.

 

Good luck

[flames]

Really enjoy this thread… so on my workbench is my 200T, it got a blocked oil tank vent and sucked in the crank case gasket. So I stripped it down, took the opportunity to give it some TLC, inside it’s in pretty good nick. But while it’s in bits I thought I’d give it new crank seals, piston rings, AV’s etc. I’ve never taken one of these apart before, but with the manual and the exploded spares diagrams there was nothing too tricky.

 

The only hard part seems to be getting the spare parts, I went to a local place that told me over the phone, when I checked, that they kept loads of 200T spares, though when I got there they had none of the parts, not even a cylinder gasket etc. So I ordered my list of parts from a well known online place, package turned up, some parts missing… after contacting them, they sent nearly all the remaining parts, grrr.

 

With enough essential parts to rebuild the saw (in time for a looming job) I realised that I’d been sent the wrong piston rings, or so I think, though not until the saw was nearly fully reassembled.

 

MS200T p-rings Stihl p/n: 1114 034 3001 Ø40x1.5mm, ones that I’d been sent came in a box that says 1114 034 3000 Ø38.5x1.5mm, only 1 out… they fitted ok, but I thought they looked a little small. Did a compression test and can only get 90-100psi, which doesn’t hold.

 

So, probably a rhetorical question, but these rings are no good? –I don’t have a lot of saw rebuild experience hence the post.

 

Next on the bench – Husky 44, my old man’s saw, that managed to fill in for the 200T – on the ‘looming job’. –cracking little saw, must be 25+ years old too, but its handle didn’t quite make it to the end of the job, ally fatigue. –any one got a spare for sale?

 

Cheers, folks.