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spudulike

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This is the culprit! I forgot this had bounced out ages ago but never though oil would fly out of it. The missing threaded bar for the clutch cover :blushing:

 

Anyone know where to find one online or have a spare one lying in a scrap box?

20130103_214244.jpg.d811171c423e13cf84b3f86ac2f7a3f6.jpg

Edited by AlvinD
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This is the culprit! I forgot this had bounced out ages ago but never though oil would fly out of it. The missing threaded bar for the clutch cover :blushing:

 

Anyone know where to find one online or have a spare one lying in a scrap box?

 

I get Husky parts from Greenstripe.net but some of the sponsers on here may be able to help

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mikerecike-albums-mikespics-picture5869-20121228-161216.jpg

 

Tuning this Danarm / Frontier 5r. You can't adjust with air filter and cover off - no holes. As soon as I replace filter and cover she dies and won't restart.

 

What is this telling me about the mixture adjustment needed? if anything?

My logic is saying filter and cover reduces air intake therefore need to lean h and L?

 

As an aside - this is a 1963 tillotson carb - new carb kit worked for half hour then sussed the metering diaphragm was pressing on lever and unseating needle so wouldn't hold pressure.

No give in the lever so I made a home made extra gasket on the metering side - works fine with loctited screws as long as not too tight. Was thinking of maybe grinding a little off the inside of the diaphragm metal cover plate (with the hole in the middle for atmospheric pressure) - just to stop the back of the metering diaphragm being pushed ever so slightly in by it. Any downside to this grinding?

 

Cheers folks

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mikerecike-albums-mikespics-picture5869-20121228-161216.jpg

 

Tuning this Danarm / Frontier 5r. You can't adjust with air filter and cover off - no holes. As soon as I replace filter and cover she dies and won't restart.

 

What is this telling me about the mixture adjustment needed? if anything?

My logic is saying filter and cover reduces air intake therefore need to lean h and L?

 

As an aside - this is a 1963 tillotson carb - new carb kit worked for half hour then sussed the metering diaphragm was pressing on lever and unseating needle so wouldn't hold pressure.

No give in the lever so I made a home made extra gasket on the metering side - works fine with loctited screws as long as not too tight. Was thinking of maybe grinding a little off the inside of the diaphragm metal cover plate (with the hole in the middle for atmospheric pressure) - just to stop the back of the metering diaphragm being pushed ever so slightly in by it. Any downside to this grinding?

 

Cheers folks

 

I have only ever tached one saw up without an airfilter being present and that was a slight mistake - five MS200Ts and only two air filters!

 

It revved briefly up to 15k so 1k above what I had set it to earlier!

 

Deductions - leaving the air filter off will increase the airflow and make the saw run lean.

 

I reckon the saw is a slow revving beast and that you should just aim for around 12,000rpm, chances are that the carb should be set to one turn on each screw but check for four stroking at the top end to be sure.

 

Is it possible to drill holes so adjustment is possible - seems pretty strange not to have any form of access to mixture adjustment???

 

I guess if you must, tune the saw without the filter so it fourstrokes normally and then turn it slightly lean for when the filter and cover are replaced - as long as it revvs out and fourstrokes with the cover on, all should be good!

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