What's on your bench today?

[mikerecike]

STIHL 010 oil pump

 

Had this saw from new 30 odd years - first saw ever bought.

 

Not oiled properly for years - since reading this thread and receiving some brill support decided to get it out - now confident that whatever happened there would be some solution.

 

Cleaned pump in white spirit, blew out every nook and cranny (including oil tank vent) was conscious that the diaphragm looked knackered but refitted - no improvement.

 

Bought a US cleaner last week - thanks Spud and Barrie for advice - dropped pump in there for 10 mins - refitted - works brill! Think it must have freed a ball valve inside.

 

I am seriosuly chuffed - thanks for a brill forum.

 

 

 

 

One thing I'm not sure about is that my oil pump has that rubber valve / pump thing on the outside - it differs from listed pumps for the 010 - I wonder what the function is?? Nothing is attached to it.

 

Another question is - would be helpful to preriodically flush the oil tank out with petrol to avoid tarriness/ deposits/ grunge??

 

 

Next step is getting in to a saw a little deeper.

 

cheers all

[mikerecike]

WORKSHOP HELP!

 

Because of the deluge over the weekend made the fatal mistake of testing a strimmer inside. Sliced through compressor line nicely - home made repair with electrical tape and jubilee - hopeless.

 

Can anyone tell me what I need to join this pipe please. Its about 11.5 mm diameter. grrrrrrr.

 

 

 

Any airline tips appreciated. I'd like to understand this stuff. I have another line but it's so stiff it's virtually useless in a confined space - how do you join this stuff - what are the fittings to go for - is there a really soft/flexible line?. I have a simple click on fitting on my little 25l wolf compressor.

 

cheers

[Ray1]

These work, you just need to get the correct one to fit the inside diameter of your hose.

[spudulike]

On the subject of ported saws and lifespan, a guy in the States did a comparison before and after porting on a Stihl 026 and found it actually ran cooler as the exhaust gasses were being expelled faster.

 

The crank, crank bearings and small end are usually pretty bullet proof and will take the extra power.

 

The ports, if opened up too far and not bevelled correctly may wear the rings but if you stay within the correct paramaters, the ring and piston should not wear considerably faster than standard.

 

The saw wil put extra wear and tear on the bar and chain - bit like a powerful car and tyres but thats life!

 

I have ported a number of saws and so far, so good! I have read much on the subject, the US go in for it much more than we do in the UK and haven't read any detrimental comments about a woods port killing the life of an engine - full race tune is a little different!

 

Just depends on what you want out of life!

[Ricbob]

Just had my 020t on the bench, given the carb a clean and re-adjust as working with it weekend just gone i found it stalling out a lot and mainly when it was hanging from my harness, it was a PITA to start again?

 

could this be an air leak? seems ok, no change in revs when tilted from side to side.

[mikerecike]

These work, you just need to get the correct one to fit the inside diameter of your hose.

 

 

cheers Ray - that looks straightforward

[Rich2484]

On the subject of ported saws and lifespan, a guy in the States did a comparison before and after porting on a Stihl 026 and found it actually ran cooler as the exhaust gasses were being expelled faster.

 

The crank, crank bearings and small end are usually pretty bullet proof and will take the extra power.

 

The ports, if opened up too far and not bevelled correctly may wear the rings but if you stay within the correct paramaters, the ring and piston should not wear considerably faster than standard.

 

The saw wil put extra wear and tear on the bar and chain - bit like a powerful car and tyres but thats life!

 

I have ported a number of saws and so far, so good! I have read much on the subject, the US go in for it much more than we do in the UK and haven't read any detrimental comments about a woods port killing the life of an engine - full race tune is a little different!

 

Just depends on what you want out of life!

 

 

Speaking if bevelling the edges what do you use. I've got a reverse cone stone but reluctant to use it as yet. Seem a bit harsh IMO. Was looking at files but some ports are the wrong angle to get one in.

[spudulike]

Speaking if bevelling the edges what do you use. I've got a reverse cone stone but reluctant to use it as yet. Seem a bit harsh IMO. Was looking at files but some ports are the wrong angle to get one in.

 

Diamond files where accessible and then medium to fine grade abrasive paper.

 

Using a grinder is a bit savage IMO!

[spudulike]

STIHL 010 oil pump

 

Had this saw from new 30 odd years - first saw ever bought.

 

Not oiled properly for years - since reading this thread and receiving some brill support decided to get it out - now confident that whatever happened there would be some solution.

 

Cleaned pump in white spirit, blew out every nook and cranny (including oil tank vent) was conscious that the diaphragm looked knackered but refitted - no improvement.

 

Bought a US cleaner last week - thanks Spud and Barrie for advice - dropped pump in there for 10 mins - refitted - works brill! Think it must have freed a ball valve inside.

 

I am seriosuly chuffed - thanks for a brill forum.

 

 

 

 

One thing I'm not sure about is that my oil pump has that rubber valve / pump thing on the outside - it differs from listed pumps for the 010 - I wonder what the function is?? Nothing is attached to it.

 

Another question is - would be helpful to preriodically flush the oil tank out with petrol to avoid tarriness/ deposits/ grunge??

 

 

Next step is getting in to a saw a little deeper.

 

cheers all

 

 

The 010 has an external pumping button you can push, not sure if it is to free the mechanism or just to give the chain a little extra oil.

 

Funny enough, I was workiong on the same component on my 009 and fitted parts of an 010 I had parts from a few years back.

 

Flushing the tank with fuel is a good idea at the end of the season - I would personally avoid some bio oils as they can become very gloopy.

[spudulike]

Just had my 020t on the bench, given the carb a clean and re-adjust as working with it weekend just gone i found it stalling out a lot and mainly when it was hanging from my harness, it was a PITA to start again?

 

could this be an air leak? seems ok, no change in revs when tilted from side to side.

 

Firstly, is the carb on factory settings on the L screw - that is one turn out from fully seated? If the screw is over 1 1/4 out then you may be compensating for an air leak in using an over rich setting!

 

The symptoms you have could be over rich or over weak carb settings, air leak, holed impulse line, worn carb parts, worn carb, bad fuel line, badly positioned fuel line, bad fuel filter, bad tank vent and the list goes on.

 

I usually strip the saw down and do a pressure and vac check as it checks out so much very quickly, I also pressure check the carb to check the needle valve and many more checks. After doing this, saws usually normally throw in the towel and work.

 

One simple thing to try is to put a known good carb on the saw and see how it is! The 020 carb is more reliable than the MS200T - it should have the H&L screws very close together!