First attempt with the Alaskan

[AndrewS]

Hi James,

 

Very interested to read your feedback.

 

I was in exactly your position (Stihl MS361) a few months back, but opted for the Small Log Mill instead to maximise the cut. With a 20" bar, I can just eek out 18.5" with the Mill post clamp hard up against the oil tank. Out of interest, what sort of cut can you achieve with the Alaskan?

 

My first impressions of the Small Log Mill have been very good (photos to follow!). In fact, it all but paid for itself in a single hour when cutting up an oak log for use as a mantel piece!

 

Downsides:

Occasional lack of parrallelism due to my over-eager support of the power head - user induced error that you probably wouldn't get with the Alaskan, given that the bar is supported at both ends.

 

Some degree of "gouging" or blade drift, for want of a better term, towards the end of the cut, whether wedged or not. Not a big problem, it either means cutting off the last 5-6", or dressing it out of the finished board, i.e. planing off more than you might otherwise need to.

 

Positives:Totally outweigh the negatives!

 

Hugely satisfying to use.

 

With care in setup (vital), you can achieve very impressive results, in terms of surface finish and squareness (if cutting a cant/beam). I was chuffed to bits with the mantel - I spent a good while setting up my improvised guide rails, but the end result was square to well within 1 degree; no exaggeration.

 

Chain sharpness and profile are also key to success (thank-you Rob!!). I have no regrets having bought Rob's 12V chain grinder plus guide assy; it has transformed the sharpening process. The chain now cuts faster, smoother and lasts longer between sharpening - primarily because all the teeth are the same length and of exactly the same profile so they all cut and wear evenly.

 

All of that said, if I were starting out again, I would choose a bigger power head (min MS460, most likely MS660) with either a 25", or 30" bar and an Alaskan Mill; it's just too addictive!

 

Best,

 

Andrew

[Jamespepperpot]

Hey there,

 

I didn't measure it but im pretty sure it was about 17-18 inches I could cut with it because I had the second clamp as far as I could along. I would be able to get an exta half inch if I removed the dogs but it wasn't really needed. I have the 30inch Alaskan though so in a couple of months or so I'm thinking of buying myself a 660 to run on it.

 

Sharpness is definitely a key factor especially with a lower powered saw because it struggles even more.

 

The slight gouging that can be seen at the end of a couple of pieces of the chestnut I did were due to me not leaving a big enough space between the top rail of the alaskan and the plywood meaning I couldnt finish the cut. Other than that the quality of cut was pretty good. I'm sure if I put a sander or planer across it and took out a millimetre it would be spot on.

I might be wrong on this but if you bought an alaskan as well it would mean you could do the first cut on the log and then run the small log mill along the top of that and cut at a perfect 90 degree angle to achieve a square log. Pretty similar to a 'skill saw' setup.

 

Where abouts are you?

 

Cheers

James

[Rob D]

Thanks for feeding back on your experiences fellas

[James_b02]

Hi there just out of interest how did you attach the ladder to the log for making the first cut? im thinking of getting an alaskan myself and am just wondering about the fine detail of how it all works, is the ladder nailed on or attached some other way?

 

Thanks

James

[Jamespepperpot]

Yeah basicall we cut out two bits of plywood that have little bandsaw cuts into them so they run along the ladders rails. One is then attached directly onto the ladder so it cant move and the other just slides along so the length of the log can be adjusted. They are then screwed into the log so the ladder is nice and level. Has been working out pretty well at the moment but I'm sure everyone has their different ways of doing it

 

James

[James_b02]

ok thanks for the info

[Ax-man]

Hey guys, I have been checking out your milling and carving forums for awhile now. I like what I am reading.

 

I got into this milling thing last spring and bought a 30 inch mill for cutting seats and backs for making outdoor benches. I also bought the smaller 20 inch mill for the smaller logs.

 

I am not to keen on nailing or screwing guides onto a log to make that first cut and laying a ladder over a log wasn't going to work for me so I built this milling. It is adjustable by adding or subtracting 2x4's or 2x6's.The mill can be adjusted for the fine tuning to make a cut. I can slide one of stands to increase the length. Right now it is set at 8 ft. or just shy of 3 meters if my conversion is correct.

 

I like this set-up and have straightened out a few pieces I tried to freehand with just a chain saw. The only draw back is for the mill with the two bar clamps you have to support the saw and then slide the guide rails under the mill and then get them to rest on the stands and then clamp them in. I still need to refine it a little but it does work and for the smaller 20 inch mill it works great because you don't have monkey around with the guide rails because that small mill has only one bar clamp.

 

Here are a few pics. I don't have any idea what to call this thing other than an adjustable saw buck or saw guide.

[Ax-man]

Here is one more.

[Daniël Bos]

I like that a lot axe-man, but is not the beauty of the alaskan that it can just sit in the truck, just in case?

[Rob D]

Like it.

 

As you say downside is having to take the end clamp off to get the Alaskan in......

 

But like the way you change the height with the 4x2s