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Tulip Tree Vs Extension


stevelucocq
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It is sometimes explained as a way of avoiding 'heave' i.e. the swelling of soil that has previously been home to a tree which has drawn away alot of moisture.

 

The thinking is that by removing the tree over a number of seasons, the soil has time to 'adjust' to the extra moisture that is present because the tree is not removing it. However, as far as I am aware (and I ain't no subsidence expert) the soil will always return to its original soil moisture content (all other things being equal) once the tree has gone, whether it takes 3 years or 3 hours with an 088!

 

If the house/extension was built after the tree was there, and the soil is a clay, the swollen soil could lift the building.

 

If the house was there before the tree, the soil will return to its previous state and the house will return to its original position.

 

Sorry to derail Steve - have you decided what you are going to recommend?

 

So there is an old yew- say 300 years old

then house gets built- with 60's foundations

Cut tree down and if soil is plastic clay water ingress swells the soil- OK fair enough i would expect the house to move as soil swells -but- has there been any work done on the effect of the existing tree roots rotting and maybe taking up this swelling- just a thought. Plus is there any way this could be managed so the swelling happened in concert with root death.

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Hi,

 

I have been to look at a large tulip tree that is 1200mm in diameter and a distance of 1500mm from a small single story extension. The tree is in good health with no evident visible weaknesses. One half of the crown over hangs the entire property and the tree is of high amenity value. There are signs of ground movement on the concrete path around the extension and small cracks in the surrounding boundary walls. No cracks in the walls of the extension were noted.

 

I am looking into ways of retaining the tree and dealing with the on going problems with future root growth etc. Also I am wary of the potential problems of removing the tree and any resultant soil heave within clay soils.

 

So far I have considered air spading to expose the roots growing under the foundations and then pruning any roots causing noticeable problems with the foundations?

 

Sorry no photos at the moment.

 

Any ideas of a possible solution would be appreciated:thumbup1:.

 

Thanks Steve

 

Hi Steve, heres my take,

1 Take into account owners veiw (he wonts it gone)

2 Soil PI What is it do a test.

3 TPO if not TPOd:thumbup: go with clients requirements.

4 How to remove?

5 The house is older than the tree IMO (BS5837) the tree would never have servived the delights of the developer!

6 Recommendations- stage its removel regardles of PI its too close to the building both forms of damage could apply.

7 Put in place a very specific caveat.

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Hi Steve, heres my take,

1 Take into account owners veiw (he wonts it gone)

2 Soil PI What is it do a test.

3 TPO if not TPOd:thumbup: go with clients requirements.

4 How to remove?

5 The house is older than the tree IMO (BS5837) the tree would never have servived the delights of the developer!

6 Recommendations- stage its removel regardles of PI its too close to the building both forms of damage could apply.

7 Put in place a very specific caveat.

 

saying what?

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saying what?

 

You need first to carfully evaluate the type of risk direct or indirect carry out as much site tests as you can , soil type, confirm foundation deapth and type of foundation, pile & beam , raft , stip, cos at this point you KNOW nothing about the site only when you have assessed everything and this should involve consultation with the original developer, architct and hitoric records from building controle, exsplore every avenue and include with in yuor report, then make a calculated judgment and if you feel there is still a risk that you may loose YOUR house in 5 years state a well worded caveat. I do have some very good ones which i only use when im up against a wall, remember its your word, on your PI and it could be your house that you loose. NHBC chap 4.2 is a good start but there is lots of material on this subject. sorry if anyone thinks im being condescending

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You need first to carfully evaluate the type of risk direct or indirect carry out as much site tests as you can , soil type, confirm foundation deapth and type of foundation, pile & beam , raft , stip, cos at this point you KNOW nothing about the site only when you have assessed everything and this should involve consultation with the original developer, architct and hitoric records from building controle, exsplore every avenue and include with in yuor report, then make a calculated judgment and if you feel there is still a risk that you may loose YOUR house in 5 years state a well worded caveat. I do have some very good ones which i only use when im up against a wall, remember its your word, on your PI and it could be your house that you loose. NHBC chap 4.2 is a good start but there is lots of material on this subject. sorry if anyone thinks im being condescending

 

condescending with spelling like yours, ha ha bloody ha

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The owner of the house is very keen to have the tree removed

 

I feel the tree is of high value and should be retained. The owner should be responsible for managing the safety of the tree by having the tree aerially inspected etc to pick up on any evident defects.

 

Steve, just curious - why were you asked to look at the tree?

 

Has the owner actually applied for permission to fell?

 

If the owner wants the tree removed I just wondered if he asked you for a quote to have it removed or did he ask for a report on the tree's condition?

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I realise that there are differing opinions on the subject of whether a tree can be felled in a day or over 3yrs of it's on clay.

Read Giles Biddles book first.

Irrespective of all that has been posted above, if you fell a tree in one go and the property subsequently experiences structural damage you will experience a very hot and sweaty collar while answering the judges questions when you get dragged to court. This is a legal fact according to a client of mine who is a high court judge.

 

Kjames' notion of including a very specific caveat is a very good idea. It won't give you complete autonomy but shows that you have acted as diligently as possible.

Also, make sure that ALL the other small print at the bottom of your quote is very wordy and includes everything you can possibly think of.

 

What you should be doing is spending 5mins on your quote and 45mins on your small print/disclaimer.

 

Have you ever read the lengthy disclaimer at the end of consultants report? No insult meant to any consultants. I've only ever read good stuff (that was educational too).

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sorry I should of explained I understand all that from my college days, what I meant have you or anyone seen this?

 

Oh, sorry mate I didn't mean to come over condescending.

 

I can't say I have witnessed it no, I am just going on what I have read and been taught.

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