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Ripping chains

Forest2Furniture

By Forest2Furniture,
in Chainsaws

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Rob D Grand Master

Rob D

Posted
Posted
Thanks for the info.

Before I got the new saw I was concerned that anything other than a stihl wouldn't have the oil grooves on the side of the drive links to carry the oil along a large bar but I see the new 880's have a switch to increase oil flow.

 

I've also noticed the tip of the 48" bar is not removable where as the end of the older 36" bar on my 660 is.

 

Any thoughts?

 

 

No idea why Stihl (or Oregon) do not produce a sprocket nose bar for the 880. The duromatic bar you have will work but the nose gets very hot and and saps some chain speed.

 

Other options are a Cannon 50" or a GB 50" sprocket nose bar. I sell both types if you're interested. Cannon 50" £260 + vat and the GB £225 + vat.

 

Both have replaceable noses. The GB bar is heavier and based on the harvester bars they manufacture and I use them but the cannon bars are also very good.

 

Which lasts longer? I'd say pretty evenly matched. Long bars get worked hard when milling.

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slack ma girdle Grand Master

slack ma girdle

Posted
Posted

Personally I think it's more down to how well you sharpen than the type of chain you're using.

 

My mum got this for my birthday, Sawtune Precision Chain Grinder from you.

This has made alot of difference, the chain is definatly cutting better since i have started using it.

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Rob D Grand Master

Rob D

Posted
Posted
My mum got this for my birthday, Sawtune Precision Chain Grinder from you.

This has made alot of difference, the chain is definatly cutting better since i have started using it.

 

 

 

Good on you mum! I've found this the best way to sharpen.... gets everything the same angle and same length :thumbup: and it's fast once you've got the hang of it.

 

:thumbup:

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