Squaring beams with the Alaskan?

[18 stoner]

Just wondering, is it possible to cut square beams easily with the alaskan?

 

I have a 4 foot standard mill and only ever done planks with it but would like to do a few beams. Not real sure how to get the side cuts at 90 deg before or after cutting the desired thickness.

 

Any info would be a help:thumbup:

 

Cheers, Pete.

[yewhunter18]

Do your first cut roll your log then get a tri-square on the end grain Mark the line on both ends then do the process of the first cut again , dunno if it will work but it's my best idea yet

[Lorry thompson]

Was about to ask this mate got some oak and can borrow a mill when I have time and fancy making a bench or something:)

[tommer9]

Mate of mine used to do it marking the end of the log wit a square to line up the cuts. That would give you a square block which would be alot easier to resaw into beams.

[treedave]

Have used a framing square and an eyebrow pencil in the past. Top cut and bottom cut, then roll 90 degrees against a post/straight edge (short enough to not bother the top cut). Then line up top cut with the line, and bottom cut, hey ho a beam.

[agg221]

Do your first cut roll your log then get a tri-square on the end grain Mark the line on both ends then do the process of the first cut again , dunno if it will work but it's my best idea yet

 

That's about it, except that when you make the first cut you just have to make sure the slabbing rail is secure, whereas when you make the second cut the rail has to be not only secure but also square, and often it doesn't want to do both at the same time! This is where I tend to use a lot of wedges, packed in before finally securing the rail.

 

I also don't tend to trust a tri-square on anything over about 5ft, as it doesn't take account of possible variation (twist) along the length. After the first roll, I use a spirit level to get the first cut absolutely true vertical (check both ends), then the squared line and the rail are absolutely true horizontal, at both ends. You have to check both ends as it's the first time you can check for twist on the first cut. If you do get it, you can split the difference on the lean (out one end, in the other) and take the second cut true horizontal. That way, if it's not too far out you can leave the first cut but if it's a bit poor you can re-run it after the second, as a very thin skim to true it up.

 

Once you've done cuts one and two, I prefer to run three and four on the first two cut faces, as that way I know they're at least two parallel pairs, so there's no variation in width of the beam and they'll be as square and true as I got the first pair.

 

I've milled a couple of beams for the extension recently (14ft oak) and getting everything really square is probably what has taken the most time. It probably takes me twice as long to convert a tree for a 9in beam as it would for through and through slabbing at 3in.

 

Alec

[Bob Slade]

do your first cut (crown board) then use a mini mill to take the sides off. use the alaskan to cut the next board to thickness required then slide the board to the edge and either clamp it to the log or if its heavy enough dont. then cut the beams out with the mini mill. i always use a chalk line to get the cut line straight. i think Rob d has got a vid on how to do it his way.

[18 stoner]

That's about it, except that when you make the first cut you just have to make sure the slabbing rail is secure, whereas when you make the second cut the rail has to be not only secure but also square, and often it doesn't want to do both at the same time! This is where I tend to use a lot of wedges, packed in before finally securing the rail.

 

I also don't tend to trust a tri-square on anything over about 5ft, as it doesn't take account of possible variation (twist) along the length. After the first roll, I use a spirit level to get the first cut absolutely true vertical (check both ends), then the squared line and the rail are absolutely true horizontal, at both ends. You have to check both ends as it's the first time you can check for twist on the first cut. If you do get it, you can split the difference on the lean (out one end, in the other) and take the second cut true horizontal. That way, if it's not too far out you can leave the first cut but if it's a bit poor you can re-run it after the second, as a very thin skim to true it up.

 

Once you've done cuts one and two, I prefer to run three and four on the first two cut faces, as that way I know they're at least two parallel pairs, so there's no variation in width of the beam and they'll be as square and true as I got the first pair.

 

I've milled a couple of beams for the extension recently (14ft oak) and getting everything really square is probably what has taken the most time. It probably takes me twice as long to convert a tree for a 9in beam as it would for through and through slabbing at 3in.

 

Alec

 

Sounds like the best way forward for me, guess Ill be giving it a try just need a good bit of time and plenty of patience! Lol!

 

do your first cut (crown board) then use a mini mill to take the sides off. use the alaskan to cut the next board to thickness required then slide the board to the edge and either clamp it to the log or if its heavy enough dont. then cut the beams out with the mini mill. i always use a chalk line to get the cut line straight. i think Rob d has got a vid on how to do it his way.

 

Cheers for that Bob, but I dont have a mini mill. Hence why I asked if there was a particular way to do it with the alaskan. Thanks anyhow.

[Gray git]

Have a look at 3rd pick in my alaskan cabin post of the mini mill at work. Fore wot this little mill costs it will save you so much time and will get the beam true so muchquicker. Also good for taking the sides off oversized logs so you can mill them.