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Chainsaw sharpener


sandbach-sticks
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With a nice engineering vice, a file and handle, one of these File gauges - Filing equipment

(much better then the file holder gauges) and a few months practice you can have a 15'' bar sorted in under 5mins, much less time then all the arsing with the electric ones.

 

would like one of these gauges myself seen afew of them now however i run stihl saws and stihl bars and chains with huskys i believe there is a 10% incline in the angle compared to stihl chains that you sharpen level if you know what i mean so wouild a husky gauge be ok on a stihl? im thinking no...

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I bought a little german electric machine from Lidls mainly to true up teeth half way through life of chain. I sharpened a chain just kissing the teeth gently no blueing. Thought I would need to finish by hand but tried it first and was amazed. Maybe My hand sharpening was not as good as I thought :biggrin:. The grinder was £19.95 and I would not bother spending more. I used to have a problem with bars jamming half way through cut on wood processor and new it was due to my sharpening grinder sorts this problem.

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I do a few of the Granberg 12 volt grinders and find them excellent.

 

Still handfile on occasions though....

 

Personally I find every third or so sharpen you need some form of guide to get all the teeth the same length.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PG-tdr3X2s0]Precision Grinder.wmv - YouTube[/ame]

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Personally I can sharpen by hand or with an electric grinder - out in the field sharpening by hand is a must, for lightly damaged cutters or just being blunt then files are best but I like the grinder if there is any heavy damage.

 

Grinders get bad press but it is generally the lack of finess in the operator using them, bringing the grinder down on to the cutter and grinding it under pressure will make its cutting edge glow orange and that will harden it making it almost impossible to file. It will also give the cutter a grinding flash of excess metal around the ground area - there is a method to grinding and once learnt, the grinder will give very good results - same as most things in life - you reap what you sow:thumbup:

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As Rob D said, use a little grinder which plugs into the car lighter socket, i have the oregon one and it great especially on the 880 with a 4 foot bar!! Hand sharpening is the way for small bars like the ms200 or ms260's etc. I am looking at one of the oregon bench grinders to sort chains out when they are knackered.

As for not cutting your hand without gloves, it just a moments lapse of concentration and hello blood loss!!! Hurts like hell and it will happen, i try and always where a thick glove. The last one i did on the 880 took 3 weeks to heal and 1 week of that my finger was locked straight with a chop stick as it was to the bone!!!!! nasty!

 

Have a look at the oregon sharpeners, i noticed jonsie is selling them in the Shiney stuff section of his website.

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I've got a Romanian, he can sharpen a chain in 5 minutes to perfection. Everyone needing a chain sharpener should hire a Eastern European. They are great loggers too, great work ethic and they never complain.

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I've got a Romanian, he can sharpen a chain in 5 minutes to perfection. Everyone needing a chain sharpener should hire a Eastern European. They are great loggers too, great work ethic and they never complain.

 

Are they hand held or bench mounted? And how do you plug them in!!!!! Lol

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I do a few of the Granberg 12 volt grinders and find them excellent.

 

Still handfile on occasions though....

 

Personally I find every third or so sharpen you need some form of guide to get all the teeth the same length.

 

 

got the same sort of thing but mine takes a file works really well ,was my dads so older than me :biggrin:

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