Bloody Landrover brakes

[Quickthorn]

Ditto the comment about pads and discs bedding in. I had a similar problem years ago, with poor braking at first which slowly improved with time.

 

Did you have much problem bleeding the system? I'm about to do work on mine, replacing fluid and master cylinder seals. Even with a non return valve, I didn't get all the air out of the system, so I've now got one of those Gunson's easy bleed kits, that work off air pressure from the spare tyre. I just hope it works...

[Dean Lofthouse]

I alway bleed the system by putting a rubber pipe on the bleed nipple the immersing the other end in brake fluid in a bottle.

 

Start with the furthest bleed nipple away from the master cylinder and open the nipple. Get someone to slowly pump the pedal until no air and clean fluid comes through.

 

Repeat on all wheels working towards the nearest to the M/cylyinder, checking the fluid level each time.

[Quickthorn]

The problem is there's only me, hence the bleed kit.

 

I've just refurbished the master cylinder with parts I ordered a while ago. I put it all back together, and put in 1/2 pint of brake fluid..30 seconds later, there's 1/2 pint of brake fluid running down the servo, inside wing and onto the drive..

 

Looks like they've sent me the wrong parts..the new cylinder is 0.06 inch smaller than the one it's supposed to be replacing, but I didn't spot it until the very last moment..so now I've got to take it all apart..again!

 

I hate working on brakes..

[detritus21]

you should be able to get them to lock up. I can get my 1961 land rover with drum brakes to lock all 4 wheels. Brakes are a pain but if you've replaced everything other than the servo and master cylinder and flexis it has to point to one of these. MC failure would normally be if you are getting a soft pedal which pumps up with use. The other thing to look at would be brake pedal height and whether there is any adjustment on the master cylinder. If may be possible to alter the position of the pedal on the push rod and this will give you a bigger amount of fluid to push through. I've got a 90 110 workshop manual on file somewhere I can dig it out and have a look and send you the relevent sections if you need them.

[Dean Lofthouse]

Sorted it now, just put the new servo on and it locks up no problem now. The brakes are excellent now

 

It just goes to show, I've been driving round for 5 years think "oh well, that's Landrover brakes for you".

 

Check your landy brakes guys, they do or are supposed to lock up easily.

 

Got to fit new master and braided hoses over the weekend which will improve them more, but just had to do one thing at once so I new for sure what the problem was.

[Canal Navvy]

On the subject of brake bleeding,it is often better to push fluid in through the bleed nipples & drain off from the res.

 

I know that some machine makers fill new machines this way

[mpb]

If you cant get a peddle with land rover brakes, jack one end up & leave it over night. The air moves to the high point in the system.

 

Martin

[tdi-rick]

I made a pressure bleeder for the Defender as it's the only way I could get a pedal.

 

Used a (new) common pressure garden spray, ditched the lance, found a plastic screw top off a vitamin jar that matched the thread and pitch of the TRW/Lucas MC, drilled it and fitted a barb fitting, and used an O ring inside the lid to seal.

 

An el cheapo pressure bleeder that works a treat.

 

Can also recommend the braided hoses. Firms up the pedal nicely.

[Dean Lofthouse]

Fiited new master cylinder and braided hoses yesterday. Although brake performance is no different from fitting the servo, the pedal is now solid, the spongyness has gone.

 

So to sum up, the only thing not new in the system are two brake pipes and the brake pedal itself.

 

Spent over £2K on parts and done the labour myself, around 41/2 days work.

 

Just sprayed chassis with old engine oil, so should do me for a good few years yet with not a lot of trouble.

 

Just need to look into getting a new back on it, this ones only 5 years old and looks tatty as you can get with rust all over, bought from autolift in bradford

[18 stoner]

Fiited new master cylinder and braided hoses yesterday. Although brake performance is no different from fitting the servo, the pedal is now solid, the spongyness has gone.

 

So to sum up, the only thing not new in the system are two brake pipes and the brake pedal itself.

 

Spent over £2K on parts and done the labour myself, around 41/2 days work.

 

Just sprayed chassis with old engine oil, so should do me for a good few years yet with not a lot of trouble.

 

Just need to look into getting a new back on it, this ones only 5 years old and looks tatty as you can get with rust all over, bought from autolift in bradford

 

Sounds like now would be a good time to give you an offer for the old girl then?