New Technique for Hazard Tree Removal.

[RopeKnight]

I do and they keep leaving cause the brush is to heavy.

I think the best solution to your problem is to employ a groundy.

 

I am hiring an apprentice and groundie for any one interested.

 

Seriously the number of conducting rings able to take up water ranges from species to species and varies from a few to twenty rings. The most effecient rings being closer to the cambuim and the least effecient further in.

 

Removal of a few rings will create a gap that cannot be bridged.

I am confident the technique when applied will result in decrease in limb and wood weight.

What I do have is my own qualitative proof and just lack technique specific quantitative proof.

[mattylee]

well my point of view is that if your up there worrying about the weight of limbs and timber etc then are you sure you should be up there?

 

Trees do carry weight and thats why we use specialist gear and a good understanding of appropraite points to rig from etc...

 

maybe i missed your point so apologies if thats the case, just come across a bit of a strange one to me!

 

happy climbing

[RopeKnight]

Thats cool!

Once a month I wonder if I should be in this top. I have climbed over a questionable areas to prune/remove and bring up the pole saw to get some weight off to compensate for my wt and the work forces. I have peeled a tree like a banana and snapped limbs off from the ground to get the tree a little safer to work in.

I like this new technique. Doesn't require much energy and seems to be pretty effective. and I like as many options as possibe.

I am glad you down graded it to strange. Sharing ideas, experiences, thoughts and opinions and caring for trees and one another is what it is about.

Hope it helps save a life/limb. Alls well.

[mattylee]

Well of course I care about tree's that's our job right?all I'm saying is we've been taught best practice so that's what I stick to.

 

Enjoy

[MOG]

wicked idea ropeknight, and awsome for sharing it with us. i fully get ya point, but i gernally like felx as in most case this reduce's the force on the rigging point/anchor point. but if it work in some case awsome, i will remember that one for sure.

 

we should always have a climber/groundy even if its someone watching... we get best pratice guides by sharing ideas....

[RopeKnight]

Totally agree with the necessary flex as well.

 

Depending on flexibility of the species, the season(dry or wet), timing between girdling and the operation, where on the tree you girdle, and other varialbles missed at this point, we need to work on this technique a bit more for better understanding of cause and effect.

 

For example removing a tree in Yard in the middle of the summer we can see those limbs dropped in the morning have already wilted by noon.

We know it dries up but to be qualitative about it is difficult.

 

I know if I am in hazard tree, any weight reduction in especially the tips( the weighted levers ends) will be most welcome.

 

 

 

wicked idea ropeknight, and awsome for sharing it with us. i fully get ya point, but i gernally like felx as in most case this reduce's the force on the rigging point/anchor point. but if it work in some case awsome, i will remember that one for sure.

 

we should always have a climber/groundy even if its someone watching... we get best pratice guides by sharing ideas....

[mattylee]

So how are you guys currently tackling hazardous trees? I'm intrigued?

[RopeKnight]

I set a line on the tree or part in question and give it good rocking.

generally if it bends as normal I will climb it, if it has wobble or wiggle I have to decide if today is a good day to die.

Usually cut and throw if possible, if it has to be rigged then it usually means alot of pole sawing and pole rigging from a safe distance till the weights off.

I have set up high lines.

I have partially cut and Rigged pieces and come out of the tree and winch and snap it off and lower to the ground.

I have on one occasion referred it to a Aerial lift company.

When it moves at the ground(sink or lift of flare) we set up 3 ropes for anchoring.

If I need to climb above the rot we add a rig to support if it fails.

One Rot and split pine was shored up with Beech planks plus 2 2" straps and a 4" strap so it wouldn't blow open.

I hope I get to do it for a while longer. I love climbing pruning and knockin em down and try to be as safe as possible so I can keep at it injury free.

Knock on wood.

New technique is an option and may help me with something in the future

So how are you guys currently tackling hazardous trees? I'm intrigued?

[mrtree]

Have you ever investigated the laws where you live? Are you allowed to severe or partially severe the trunk of a tree and leave it standing? I bet if you look at the industrial safety code you will find that this is an illegal practice.

 

As for reducing weight there is at least one case I have heard of where a crane collapsed under the massive weight of a water-logged cottonwood. It seems that the green weight tables do not account for spring water uptake and the crane was inadvertantly overloaded.

[Steve Bullman]

I have partially cut and Rigged pieces and come out of the tree and winch and snap it off and lower to the ground.