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Climbing on two or more prussics...


Xerxses
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Those frenchies love the 2 prussik method. I have seen them at it and they make it look really good!

 

You can footlock up a double line and then go straight to work.

 

Wher ehe had three prussikes on the go it was just like the "M" technique but with a prussik in the middle instead of a pulley, which makes good sense! With a pulley it is always trying to put you in the centre and maybe that is not what you want.

 

I would like to try it someday. But there must be a reason why no one usign this technique has ever got far in the world comps!

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The only words I got was "left" and "right". But I understand what it is they are demonstrating.

 

I have seen it done with an adjustable bridge lenght on you harness, so you adjust it as long as possible so that the two prussiks are far enough away for footlocking, then draw the bridge in tight so the prussiks are in normal position for work, it is genius but in a french kind of way.

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Hi Guys,

 

I think the phrase 'genius in a french way' is highly appropriate...........only in France............It looks effective, but a bit complicated in my mind, I climb with 2 prussiks, and double belay whenevr possible to give better stability, especially in the outer crown. I find conventional techniques serve well in the long run...........but I'm an old dinosaur ina modern world :confused1:

 

JohnB

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