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Rate My Hinge.


Frank
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  • 3 weeks later...
It is a W cut for heavily leaning trees. You cut 2 mouths at 90 to each other. It reduces the chances of splits rips, and badgers chairs. It does need commitment, as once you start don't stop.

The tree comes down quick so you don't want to be near it, as bent trees tend to bounce around abit. :thumbup:

 

Like a triangle cut when removing heavy limbs that you want to land flat except your standing on the ground ? Triangle is the strongest shape so it holds to the last second then pops in the direction it wants to go ?

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I would have done that gob a few inches deeper. And the hinge a bit thinner for it to pull easier

 

Yes I would have cut a much larger gob, but then I would also have held the saw with hands its designed to be held with and would have wrapped my thumb around the handle.

 

I found that video very uncomfortable to watch, but thats just me.

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Yes I would have cut a much larger gob, but then I would also have held the saw with hands its designed to be held with and would have wrapped my thumb around the handle.

 

I found that video very uncomfortable to watch, but thats just me.

 

I know where you are coming from huck;)

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Thanks for the comments - will try harder :blushing:

 

Regarding face cuts; 20 years ago I was taught to put in a large gob, 1/3 tree dia. Nowadays these college kids are telling me that a gob no larger than 1/4 tree diameter should be used. Yet you guys go for 45% gobs?

I want to get it right, but now I'm just :confused1:

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Thanks for the comments - will try harder :blushing:

 

Regarding face cuts; 20 years ago I was taught to put in a large gob, 1/3 tree dia. Nowadays these college kids are telling me that a gob no larger than 1/4 tree diameter should be used. Yet you guys go for 45% gobs?

I want to get it right, but now I'm just :confused1:

 

It's situation dependent, I like a deeper gob as it helps to tip the balance point easier. Also Less wood to cut at the back reducing risk of barber chairing.

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