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Posted
Nice.

 

You've taken the guts out? Clean, straight stem?

 

Daniel.

 

It was a 35ft pole with a back lean. Bore through the middle to have a more friendly hinge. That was my thinking.......(correct me if needs be as I want to learn, plenty out there who have years and years of experience and tips to pass on!!!😀)

Posted

Just for a change, I'm gonna ask a question I don't usually ask.

 

Why have you cut the toes off?😧

 

I know there's plenty of humour involved here but I regard you as one of the best tree men in Europe at the moment Ian, so hopefully you can explain in a constructive manner without the usual "that's how I've always done it" or "my saw wasnt big enough"

 

Come on Ian, give it a try, in a mentor type of teaching👍

Posted
Just for a change, I'm gonna ask a question I don't usually ask.

 

Why have you cut the toes off?😧

 

I know there's plenty of humour involved here but I regard you as one of the best tree men in Europe at the moment Ian, so hopefully you can explain in a constructive manner without the usual "that's how I've always done it" or "my saw wasnt big enough"

 

Come on Ian, give it a try, in a mentor type of teaching👍

 

 

Just because I had time in all honesty. I took onboard tonnes of advice at the UK loggers and wanted to have a cheeky practice.

 

Although I probably still would knock it's front 3 sides into a square as it makes teaching the apprentices easier because I can accurately draw over it. (Angles, depth of facecut, hinge width and height).

 

Other than that I find on a full crowned tree it does help a lot if your trying to stunt fell it.

 

But for most fells, just the standard 3 cuts will do.

Posted

Ian, how does it help when felling a tree with a full crown? I see no advantage

 

I, when cutting commercially or felling in Arb work, just fell the tree, often utilising the buttresses & if the timber needs to be presented take them off afterwards.

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