Stihl LSG950 mill, first attempt with oak.

[Bob Slade]

i use either tung, teak or linseed oil but do not use danish its no good for out side. pay attention to the end grain. leave on for 15 20 mins then wipe off excess. then burn the rags do not put them in the bin they could self combust. repeat 48 hours later.

[robbo 110]

purely out of interest, does anyone know the the chemical reaction that may cause this self-combustion??? ive never seen much proof of self -combustion, unless your really looking for it................. any one got any tales???????????

Edited June 5, 2010 by robbo 110

[treequip]

purely out of interest, does anyone know the the chemical reaction that may cause this self-combustion??? ive never seen much proof of self -combustion, unless your really looking for it................. any one got any tales???????????

 

The oils don’t dry but evaporation, they do it by oxidation.

 

It’s incredibly difficult to get it to happen. I spray my patio furniture with linseed once a year and I still have my eyebrows

 

If you are worried bin the rags in a zip lock bag. No oxygen = no oxidation = no heat = no fire. Burning them is always fun though and if you ever needed an excuse for a little fire.....

 

Andy

[openboater]

Nice looking planks.

 

I've been making garden furniture staight from green oak. So much easier to work with as is soft (compared to dry anyway!) and nice and flat.

 

If you dry it first it can then be a bit of a pain to bolt together as you always get a twist or something happen...

 

 

Rob, I've decided that I want to try a helpers handle on one end of my mill so that I can use it on my own for narrower jobs. I don't suppose I can get one from you at the trade show next weekend can I ? I need the type with the idler pulley that you described to me on the phone some time ago.

[Rob D]

Not going to the trade show but I'll get a few of these in anyway and get one over to you. Bob Slade had one for the same reasons. I don't like to advertise them too much becasue you get huge vibration off them!

 

But it does mean you can do jobs with a double ender by yourself.

 

Give me a call after 11th June 07811611457 and we'll get one sorted. They're quite expensive at £55-00 + vat just to warn you.

[openboater]

All noted Rob, thanks for the warning. If I need someone on both ends of the mill I'll fit the second powerhead.

Is there any reason that I couldn't just ask a second person to steady the far end of the mill by holding the other saw but not start it up ?

Has anyone tried this already ?

[Big J]

I would imagine that the second idle powerhead would eat quite a lot of the power as it would require some force to turn the piston over repeatedly? Just a thought.

[openboater]

Mmm, I hadn't worked that bit out had I ?

I was thinking it would just spin on its needle rollers regardless of chain speed generated by the driving saw........or would it ??

Wouldn't the only moving parts on the second saw be the clutch drum/sprocket assembly ?

Angus .

[Cracker]

Mmm, I hadn't worked that bit out had I ?

I was thinking it would just spin on its needle rollers regardless of chain speed generated by the driving saw........or would it ??

Wouldn't the only moving parts on the second saw be the clutch drum/sprocket assembly ?

Angus .

 

You could take the spark plug out.

[18 stoner]

The only way the engine would be turned over is if the cluth was engaged. As the clutch is activated centrifugally(sp) when driven by the crank, when the saw is stopped it will not engage. The drum will spin freely provided the brake is off.

 

If the chain is pulled along by the other powerhead it will not activate the clutch so shouldnt be a problem, but it will be a big dead lump on the other end of the mill!