Clutch spring hack

[AHPP]

Back to my 661, the reason I was doing clutch springs is that it's been running on very badly during some HEAVY use recently. Maintaining a really high idle until I slowed the chain on some wood and then blipped the throttle. Should I do the M tronic reset? The rev it for two minutes thing.

Edited 21 hours ago by AHPP

[AHPP]

@Steve Bullman Post the video from one of your Camberley visits please. The manual isn't especially clear.

[Steve Bullman]

https://youtu.be/R8J3061XgS0?si=ZWE370tn5vz-IdPR

[AHPP]

Much obliged.

 

"It's all in the owner's manual."

 

Obviously the (service) manual I have describes a slightly different procedure... And is for 2013-07 saws. My saw is 2018. Anybody got a manual with the right bit in please?

[Mark_Skyland]

14 hours ago, doobin said:

I’m sure you know this, and you’re just being facetious with the resident drunken anarchist.  But for the benefit of those more easily led astray…

 

These don’t have a proper seal, just a loose bit of plastic against the end where the blades protrude from. It’s not like a round shaft where a rotary lipped seal can easily form a total seal against the oil. 
 

I laughed at his post because although he have have filled it with chain oil, he hasn’t yet realised that there’s none left inside it unless he’s stored it standing up for the last 15 years and not used it. 
 

Your workshop is full of trimmers for the reason that people assume once it’s ’filled with grease’ then it’s good. What actually happens is that they get hot with use, the grease gets liquid, and escapes from the blade end. And then it’s not replaced. What’s left inside emulsifies with the loss of the oil component of the grease through heat and ends up in the familiar waxy looking crap everywhere in the head except where it’s needed- on the gears and in particular the con rod bearings. 
 

stick a grease nipple into the fitting and grease it every other time it’s used and they will not fail.

Yes, I doubt the chain oil would stay in there for long at all. Some of the grease starts to run out not long after you grease them, loads comes out when doing a pdi. 

Just to clarify, 99% of the hedge trimmers in the workshop are long reach ones, they really suffer from lack of grease. Its not just that the bearings wear out from lack of grease its water contamination rusting them up. No grease to protect the bearings plus water causes rust. I think the way people store the machines also makes a big difference, if its wet and you store the machine hanging from the powerhead then all the water on the drive tube will run into the bearings. Battery machines are even worse as they have a minimal amount of grease to start off with and a lot of water and debris end up right inside the gearbox. They can easily cost a lot of money to repair not just to replace bearings but conrods soon wear out the locating hole in the blades and they are the best part of £110 to replace, the blades that is, the bearings and the conrods might cost £60 ish. If you also wear out the main cam it can soon become a right off.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Mark_Skyland]

32 minutes ago, AHPP said:

Much obliged.

 

"It's all in the owner's manual."

 

Obviously the (service) manual I have describes a slightly different procedure... And is for 2013-07 saws. My saw is 2018. Anybody got a manual with the right bit in please?

Attached is the only instruction manual for the ms661. You need to do the 90sec reset.

This explains how to do it. 

How To Perform An M-Tronic Reset | STIHL Blog

BLOG.STIHL.CO.UK

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STIHL M-Tronic machines are designed to perform at their best at all times, but they sometimes need a reset. Find out when and how to reset them here.

 

 

MS661.pdf

[AHPP]

You beauty. 

[openspaceman]

12 hours ago, Sviatoslav Tulin said:

All foresters i know are very bad at maintenance of machines !

Probably, I found my saws required little maintenance, very seldom removed a spark plug and just generally cleaned around the clutch sprocket and cover, shot of grease in clutch bearing, ( bearing did not get much use as tickover slow enough to stall after 30 seconds on idle) plus made sure cooling fins were clear. 

 

Daily maintenance was air cleaner, which I did with petroil despite the manual saying not to. Sharpening was light and two or three times a day unless on sandy soil or having hit something, chain tension at the same time. Never greased the tips after I was about 30.

 

A normal day would burn through seven tanks of fuel a day.

 

I never needed a warranty claim on my, or the helpers', saws.

 

We used 60cc Husky saws almost exclusively after 87 and I tended to buy a new one once a year and hand my old one down to a helper. I still use one of them ( I have three dating from 92 to 97)t hough I have an original 346 as my goto  saw because it is lighter and I only cut logs.

[AHPP]

 

Footage from the successful (if loud) M-Tronic operation this morning. Why can’t car ECUs be that easy?