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Posted

Have you checked the bar rails are level and not splayed and the end sprocket is free running with no play? Is the rim drive in decent condition.

Perhaps trying a new bar, chain and rim drive or at least one of another saw may give further info.

Good luck getting the new seals back in, they are fiddly little feckers and bloody expensive. 

 

Posted

Is the flywheel all there? Missing fins? Or a lump of something wedged between the fins?

 

Is there slop in the wrist (knuckle?) needle bearing/s that connect the piston with the crank?

 

Are the antivibe mounts all in working order?

 

 

Posted

Haironyourchest,  In reply to your questions.....The flywheel is all intact with no missing fins to cause an imbalance. There was no play in the big or little end of the con rod. I have been able to rebuild the saw tonight, and she fired up a treat with no vibrations as expected. It will be weekend before I can try her in some wood. The only difference , is that I have also replaced the deflection limiter bushing which was worn. My theory with that was if excessive travel was causing the AV springs (all intact) to allow the two dampened assemblies to contact each other  when in the cut i.e pulling up on the rear handle and pressing down on the front handlebar. I will update this weekend ......Rgds, Med

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Guys. Sorry for the delay in getting back to you all. Having replaced the two crank shaft seals and rebuilt the saw, I wad able last night to try it in some wood under-load. Having replaced the deflection limiter bush located under the chain drive area the vibration has now gone, so this must have been the cause for the vibration. After the rebuild the saw started instantly and idled correctly. The same when I started it last night and I sawed firewood for 1hr without issue. Then I placed the saw on the ground idling correctly and the saw cut out. I tried to restart but no joy. I pulled the plug and I have a spark out of the cylinder. I haven’t poured any petrol down the plug hole to see if it will fire on that yet as it was getting late. Typical engineer, Iam thinking could it be something that I have done when installing the crank seals ? How do I further diagnose this NO start issue ? Thanks for your time and knowledge …,Rgds, Med

Posted (edited)

My post comes in two parts. In the first part I shall be facaetious. In the second I shall be helpful. 
 

Husky doesn’t start. Fuccking imagine that. 
 

There are particular 550s and 560s well known for being difficult starting hot, quite possibly fixed on revised models (mk2 etc). I don’t know anything about Huskys (other than that they don’t start) but now I’ve prompted it, someone who does know is likely to weigh in on the matter with actual help. 

Edited by AHPP
Posted

Mk 1 husky saws were bad on the restart when hot. They work better if you follow the hot start process of putting the choke on taking it off so it starts at half throttle. 

 

My MK1 was bad for it especially in the summer. Eventually it went in for repair and it has a new carb under warranty, which was the issue. What was wrong with it exactly I can't remember. 

 

Tank breather isn't blocked is it?

Posted

The crank seals are not the easiest to get fitted correctly, so initially I would do a quick pressure test to be sure before attacking anything else.

  • Like 1
Posted

Evening ADW, Just tried to start it from cold on choke and nothing, not trying even to fire!  So your advise is to pressure test the crank seals that I have replaced ? Do I need 7 psi in the cylinder whilst spraying soapy water around the seals ? I don't understand how the saw ran perfectly for so long after rebuilding it ? As I said used the saw for 1hr perfectly and then just cut out when out down on idle and will not restart !!!! Any other tests I can carry out ?  Thanks in advance ...............Med ,

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