Chainsaw sharpener tool

[Muddy42]

I've tried the 2 in 1 system and I think a separate round file and a flat file does a better job. you can see what you are doing better.

 

Get the right round file for your chain. Use or make handles for your files.  Always use a sharp file - if in doubt just bin it - its so much easier to sharpen with a fresh file.  Take your time and have good lighting.  Mount the chainsaw bar in a vice.  Look at the shape of a new tooth and replicate it.

 

I sharpen everything by hand, up to 36 inch bar.

 

 

[Stubby]

1 hour ago, Muddy42 said:

I've tried the 2 in 1 system and I think a separate round file and a flat file does a better job. you can see what you are doing better.

 

Get the right round file for your chain. Use or make handles for your files.  Always use a sharp file - if in doubt just bin it - its so much easier to sharpen with a fresh file.  Take your time and have good lighting.  Mount the chainsaw bar in a vice.  Look at the shape of a new tooth and replicate it.

 

I sharpen everything by hand, up to 36 inch bar.

 

 

As above .

[kram]

While you can make handles, they are really not comfortable, unless your really good at drilling holes by eye and whittle it to shape. For 2 quid each its worth getting a decent Pferd handle. Its good practise to rotate the file with each stroke so that it wears evenly, and for that you need a good handle.

 

PFERD Replacement Wooden File Handle | Gustharts

WWW.GUSTHARTS.COM

---

PFERD Replacement Wooden File Handle. Durable, comfortable handle for your chainsaw files. Essential tool for sharpening. FREE Delivery over £75...

 

 

The proper way to set a file in a handle is to heat the tang up red hot - only the tang, you dont want to temper the working bit, and push into the handle. The heat swells the wood so that it will not come off.

 

As above, the 2 in 1 Stihl files are shite. Rakers only need one stroke each and takes a fraction of the total time.

 

[gand]

On 07/04/2025 at 22:14, scbk said:

Not got one, but this looks pretty easy:

 

 

 

I wouldn't like to hand sharpen after that, Sounds pretty aggressive! 2 in 1 file makes the chain bite to much (feels like the rakers have been filed away, although some folk like to do that anyway) and overpriced! The hand file jigs/clamps are crap and yet again overpriced and a pain in the arse to set up. The best is a file with handle and if your feeling fancy use a guide. With the rakers I've mainly done a lite stroke with the file every couple of sharpens, unless it's had some damage and had a bit taken from the tooth, then I get the depth gauge out

[scbk]

30 minutes ago, gand said:

I wouldn't like to hand sharpen after that, Sounds pretty aggressive! 2 in 1 file makes the chain bite to much (feels like the rakers have been filed away, although some folk like to do that anyway) and overpriced! The hand file jigs/clamps are crap and yet again overpriced and a pain in the arse to set up. The best is a file with handle and if your feeling fancy use a guide. With the rakers I've mainly done a lite stroke with the file every couple of sharpens, unless it's had some damage and had a bit taken from the tooth, then I get the depth gauge out

If you spent circa £5k on an automatic chain sharpener then you'd never hand sharpen again in your life!

 

I like the Pfered 2 in 1 file (it was about £30) but I would say it sets the depth gauges more for softwood than hardwood.

 

You can also get knock off 2 in 1 files, I got some for about £7, and they don't feel much different to the genuine.

[gand]

32 minutes ago, scbk said:

If you spent circa £5k on an automatic chain sharpener then you'd never hand sharpen again in your life!

That I can believe is true, but what do you do when your out in the field so to speak? Carry a shed load of chains or give it a quick sharpen every couple of tanks. If you keep on top of it, it doesn't take up that much time 

[Stubby]

9 hours ago, kram said:

While you can make handles, they are really not comfortable, unless your really good at drilling holes by eye and whittle it to shape. For 2 quid each its worth getting a decent Pferd handle. Its good practise to rotate the file with each stroke so that it wears evenly, and for that you need a good handle.

 

PFERD Replacement Wooden File Handle | Gustharts

WWW.GUSTHARTS.COM

---

PFERD Replacement Wooden File Handle. Durable, comfortable handle for your chainsaw files. Essential tool for sharpening. FREE Delivery over £75...

 

 

The proper way to set a file in a handle is to heat the tang up red hot - only the tang, you dont want to temper the working bit, and push into the handle. The heat swells the wood so that it will not come off.

 

As above, the 2 in 1 Stihl files are shite. Rakers only need one stroke each and takes a fraction of the total time.

 

When you have " burnt " the tang into the handle you should remove it strait away and only tap it back in when it has cooled down .

[Muddy42]

11 hours ago, kram said:

While you can make handles, they are really not comfortable, unless your really good at drilling holes by eye and whittle it to shape. For 2 quid each its worth getting a decent Pferd handle. Its good practise to rotate the file with each stroke so that it wears evenly, and for that you need a good handle.

 

PFERD Replacement Wooden File Handle | Gustharts

WWW.GUSTHARTS.COM

---

PFERD Replacement Wooden File Handle. Durable, comfortable handle for your chainsaw files. Essential tool for sharpening. FREE Delivery over £75...

 

 

The proper way to set a file in a handle is to heat the tang up red hot - only the tang, you dont want to temper the working bit, and push into the handle. The heat swells the wood so that it will not come off.

 

As above, the 2 in 1 Stihl files are shite. Rakers only need one stroke each and takes a fraction of the total time.

 

For file handles I just use bits of seasoned hazel wood. I have made loads of them. Wirewool off the rough bark, chop to size, round off the end that goes in your palm with a belt sander, drill holes. Very comfortable and free!

 

Edited Wednesday at 06:27 by Muddy42

[Dan Maynard]

Can't see any reason to heat the files to red and even risk ruining the tempering.

 

The best tip for files is never hold the handle and bang the tip of the file down on the vice, always flip it so you're holding the file and tap the back of the handle on the vice.

 

If you hold the handle sooner or later the file will fall out mid bang and you bring your hand down onto the tang. Not done it myself but know others who learnt the hard way.

[kram]

52 minutes ago, Dan Maynard said:

Can't see any reason to heat the files to red and even risk ruining the tempering.

 

The best tip for files is never hold the handle and bang the tip of the file down on the vice, always flip it so you're holding the file and tap the back of the handle on the vice.

 

If you hold the handle sooner or later the file will fall out mid bang and you bring your hand down onto the tang. Not done it myself but know others who learnt the hard way.

 

It is the proper way that files were intended to be set long before chainsaws existed. It has no risk to the tempering. I did a chisel edge file today (for square filed chains). Only the tip of the tang should be glowing, heat doesnt travel fast in steel. When its done, the working area of the file is cool enough to touch - if you have done it right. There will be a line/shit stain up the file from the burning steam as it escapes.

If the file gets overheated by doing it wrong, the metal will change colour to a straw or blue colour.

 

The Pferd handles I linked above, the hole is too big for round files but ok for flat. I had to glue them in

 

Never hit a file, they are brittle. Hold the handle and tap the base of the on a hard object several times. The weight of the file, although small, will knock itself in, tight.

 

 

Edited Thursday at 20:12 by kram