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Broken drill - Some handy person walk me through this please


AHPP
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3 hours ago, AHPP said:

Will turn a bit if you start it by hand.

That actually sounds a bit like my small Makita saw, I was pretty convinced the chain was dragging, it seemed to improve when I changed the sprocket.

 

Luckily I have the 18v and 36v versions so was able to swap over parts from working saw, turned out the trigger switch was duff. Cost about £15 for a new one if I recall, L&S had them. It does look like your one in there.

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Trigger's fine. It's definitely that brush (seeing as nobody's explicitly corrected me, I'm going to assume I have the names of things right). It's now just a matter of how to smoosh it inwards consistently or replace it. How long are they to start with?

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16 hours ago, AHPP said:

How do I know when a brush needs replacing as opposed to just pressing into the commutator harder?

They are brushes, yes. Generally they move forward under light spring pressure to take up the gradual wear, so as the brush gets shorter the pressure goes. Its possible they stick, bunged up with dust and dirt, but generally they are only a few pounds and so if there's a question put new ones in. Often come with new springs as well.

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12 hours ago, Dan Maynard said:

That actually sounds a bit like my small Makita saw, I was pretty convinced the chain was dragging, it seemed to improve when I changed the sprocket.

 

Luckily I have the 18v and 36v versions so was able to swap over parts from working saw, turned out the trigger switch was duff. Cost about £15 for a new one if I recall, L&S had them. It does look like your one in there.

The Makita twin 18v battery electric chainsaw has a load sensor so it wouldn’t start if the chain was touching something. 
 

caught me out a few times when the oil ran out as the chain began to bind and the saw wouldn’t start up. 

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34 minutes ago, doobin said:

The Makita twin 18v battery electric chainsaw has a load sensor so it wouldn’t start if the chain was touching something. 
 

caught me out a few times when the oil ran out as the chain began to bind and the saw wouldn’t start up. 

That's what I thought was going on, drove me nuts cleaning and cleaning it. Eventually it wouldn't start at all one day when I was out on a branch trying to rig a bit back over a satellite dish, had to use silky and decided either parts needed changing or it was going in the bin.

 

Been absolutely fine since.

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36 minutes ago, Dan Maynard said:

That's what I thought was going on, drove me nuts cleaning and cleaning it. Eventually it wouldn't start at all one day when I was out on a branch trying to rig a bit back over a satellite dish, had to use silky and decided either parts needed changing or it was going in the bin.

 

Been absolutely fine since.

Mine ended up in the bin! Based on the performance of the Milwaukee M18 top handle it'll be totally outclassed by the M18 back handle anyhow.

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Can you find a parts diagram or similar? I know for my small tools the parts diagram sort of shows it exploded and gives an idea what to take apart where. Sounds like brushes, most brushes are generic so spares should be available if you can find the part number (couple of ££). As always I'd give it a once over clean too while it is apart. You might have some temporary luck cleaning the rotor (brass part) and the brush with some electrical contact cleaner.

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I used my temporary luck the last time I think. I can see the brush refusing to stay mated this time.

 

Seems pretty clean in there. Gave it some brake cleaner and air.

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