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Broken drill - Some handy person walk me through this please


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Posted

Symptom: Light goes on but drill doesn’t turn. Will turn a bit if you start it by hand.
 

Happened a few months ago. Took it apart. It fixed itself. 
 

Happened again now. Here’s what I’m looking at. 
 

1.

2338871F-DFFC-40DA-8CCC-A51EDD1180BE.thumb.jpeg.a49d6d751cba2a4651b75b89cb03f523.jpeg

 

2.

850E2152-0C1E-46AF-BADD-4C0AF56EAECA.thumb.jpeg.51dca70cdaf016df3018e7377254168a.jpeg

 

3.

DDDC4064-EB4E-49D6-B46B-4E6AC7D8F8C1.thumb.jpeg.a327266e31fc9c5ba8e0355703be22e9.jpeg


 

As far as I can tell, the bent tabs in pic 2 that have springs under them press the scalloped carbon things (brushes I assume?) onto the middle turny bit (commutator?), visible through the hole in pic 3.


How do I know when a brush needs replacing as opposed to just pressing into the commutator harder? Pressing the back of the tab gets more drill speed.  

How do I get them out?

 

Did consult YouTube last time. Didn’t find anything very useful. Feel free to direct me to an actually pertinent video. 
 

P.S. Haven’t electrocuted myself yet but the night is young. 

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Posted

Do they not do a bare version.

 

Most of the other brands do, think a Makita bare is like £80 as long as you don't want all the stuff you've already got.

Posted

Brushed motor, in these sort of tools they usually burn out well before the brushes need replacing.

 

Looks like a cheapy, with no branding on the battery?

 

Suggest a new brushless one. Same situation myself I was going to look for a brushless Fakita.

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