Chain 'spins' on for a while, no throttle

[Muddy42]

or check the manual.

[jimug]

I found very little on youtube but plenty of the clutches for the bigger and pro saws like you linked.. The 135 clutch looks like this, and my reference to sliding apart was confirmed, that middle bit must push out from the side pictured (spring is held in place by two 'fins' tother side so won't just pull off)

[GarethM]

4 minutes ago, jimug said:

I found very little on youtube but plenty of the clutches for the bigger and pro saws like you linked.. The 135 clutch looks like this, and my reference to sliding apart was confirmed, that middle bit must push out from the side pictured (spring is held in place by two 'fins' tother side so won't just pull off)

The middle does not move, the two outer sections swing out engaging the clutch cup.

 

The spring keeps them disconnected at slow speed.

[jimug]

2 minutes ago, GarethM said:

The middle does not move, the two outer sections swing out engaging the clutch cup.

 

The spring keeps them disconnected at slow speed.

Understood.. before I started on all this I didn't know how a chainsaw clutch worked so it's been useful in understanding that.. but - I'm talking specifically about how to get that old spring off the assembly as pictured. So I'm assuming the if view was directly viewed from above, looking directly down into the bit with the threaded hole in it - that pushes away from the viewer, so the two bits that move can come off it completely allowing the spring to come off the grooves it sits in on them, and the new one goes on, slide the two moving bits onto the threaded bit and done... it all looks really self explanatory now I've put all the bits of advice together but I didn't fancy breaking it. I'll give it a go.

[GarethM]

I'm not a Husqvarna man, but presumably once removed off the centre thread it's replaced from the underside as I'm sure it's just one big circular spring using the clutch cup as a impromptu retainer mechanism.

 

Whichever is cheaper, new spring or new clutch. In reality it might just be quicker to take it to the local guy and they can pop it off in minutes instead of struggling.

[Taw Valley Dave]

I had this issue.  Also, at the same time, saw seems to show high compression when pull starting.  Obviously. like other commentators here, I suspected clutch spring issue.  This was not the case.  There is a first version of this saw and a Mark 2.  I have first version.  I was very surprised to see that in my version the clutch rim drives the oil pump worm drive.   Therefore if this worm drive is stuck to the crankshaft (and I'm not sure what the designers' intentions were),  ANY rotation of the crankshaft will drive the clutch rim and therefore the chain.  This means that when to try to pull start the saw you are actually driving the chain, I think!    Seems a big design mistake and I notice that at least one other comment here mentions the worm drive sticking to the crankshaft, something that may be difficult to prevent.    In Mark2 version a small washer (530 09 56 11) is introduced behind the clutch rim to stop any interaction with the worm drive and a new worm drive is introduced (therefore also amended oil pump parts?). It takes a little bit of searching online to find the parts diagrams for both of these 135 version.  

[Stubby]

On 29/04/2024 at 10:05, jimug said:

All makes sense. Not suggesting I'd in any way 'fix' the existing spring - I have a new one so may as well fit it. Just couldn't quite see how, but if it's as easy as pushing the middle out I will just go belt and braces. (what I was alluding to was assuming the existing spring looked OK, just checking the oil drive, but I think I'll do both while I'm at it)

Don't fit just one . Fit all three ( or two as in the photo above )

[pleasant]

On 08/04/2024 at 19:40, adw said:

Single spring clutch, same as the one used on many of the entry level saws.

spring 530094188

Clutch removal tool 530031112

Do not try to tap the clutch legs to remove the clutch, they are a sintered material and will snap off, you need to use the tool with a 19mm spanner to jar the clutch off clockwise.

This is good advice. Those clutch 'shoes' are very brittle...even a gentle tap and they can break bits off.

 

I must be honest, though in 25 years of repairing, the only time I have had to replace that type of Husky wrap around spring is when one of the ends has snapped off, rather than any 'stretch' or fatigue in the spring. They really don't expand that far when the shoes are engaged.

 

When you throttle off, immediately you should be able to rest the still rotating chain on the wood and feel no resistance to it trying to continue to rotate. If you feel whilst it is 'throttling down' to idle the saw chain still try to pull across the top of the wood, then as others have said it could be a melted plastic pump drive, or a partially seized clutch bearing........or even a too loose chain with a high idle.

[spudulike]

8 hours ago, Taw Valley Dave said:

I had this issue.  Also, at the same time, saw seems to show high compression when pull starting.  Obviously. like other commentators here, I suspected clutch spring issue.  This was not the case.  There is a first version of this saw and a Mark 2.  I have first version.  I was very surprised to see that in my version the clutch rim drives the oil pump worm drive.   Therefore if this worm drive is stuck to the crankshaft (and I'm not sure what the designers' intentions were),  ANY rotation of the crankshaft will drive the clutch rim and therefore the chain.  This means that when to try to pull start the saw you are actually driving the chain, I think!    Seems a big design mistake and I notice that at least one other comment here mentions the worm drive sticking to the crankshaft, something that may be difficult to prevent.    In Mark2 version a small washer (530 09 56 11) is introduced behind the clutch rim to stop any interaction with the worm drive and a new worm drive is introduced (therefore also amended oil pump parts?). It takes a little bit of searching online to find the parts diagrams for both of these 135 version.  

This is a very old thread but you will find that most chainsaws have an oiling pinion/worm that rotates freely on the crank shaft and this is driven by the clutch engaging on the clutch drum this spinning the pinion that operates the oil pump and only when the chain is spinning unlike vintage saws that often oiled all the time.

Not sure how else a saw would oil only when the chain is spinning but it is a pretty much universally adopted concept.