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Webb mower problem


Deafhead
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Hi, Nice little 14" Webb mower came my way, problem being unable to free the roller drive. I have tried all the available adjustments to no avail, and all seems correctly assembled. The only conclusion that I have been able to arrive at, is that the incorrect belt has been fitted at some time. I have been unable to find any information on this model ( Model No.277 2249) so any help would be welcome, A clean up of the points and carb and it starts and runs like new, I don't think that it has seen much use. The cutter system works sort of o.k. Mower is well built with a large grassbox so would be a handy addition to my fleet.

Webb mower.jpg

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Unless someone here knows the exact length of the belt, measure it with a piece of string and buy a new fan belt for around £10.

 

A better picture side on of the pulleys would be good plus any data plate.

 

As it looks like either one really long belt or two smaller ones as that top pulley looks like it's got two grooves.

 

 

 

Edited by GarethM
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Cheers Gareth, There are two belts, the roller drive belt is 63 cm long and its this one that is probably incorrect. My local belt and bearing supplier can do these belts in 1cm increments so I might try one a little longer, they are in fact only a few pounds each. Haven't found any data plates so far just the model number.

Might try the oldlawnmower club, but a quick look didn't turn up anything useful.  

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Faced with that, I would remove or loosen the belts and make sure the cylinder and the drive roller both turn easily. I would then tension the cylinder belt to see if the motor will spin it and then do the same with the roller.

If an incorrect belt is fitted, the belt will slip round the pulleys so the drive can't drive either the cylinder if drive roller. On my Qualcast 17 ( bit like a Suffolk Colt) the tensioner is engaged to tighten the belt to get if to drive. The cylinder is in a centrifugal clutch. Not had a Webb machine in yet...Atco, Suffolk and Qualcast only.

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11 hours ago, daveatdave said:

as spud says, it might be a bearing that has collapsed or something that is jamming the roller i had a roller mower given once it would start and run OK but when you engaged the drive it would stall it turned out to be a dead frog jammed in the roller    

Agree with the above. Check roller is turning freely with belt off and work from there. One thing to watch with those Webb drives is try too get the correct belt ( not a bog standard drive belt) as the pulley is constantly running against the belt when not in drive. This can cause heat build up on that section of the belt. By adjusting the round guide bars either side of the pulley (a tap with a hammer😂) you should be able to keep the belt clear of the live pulley.

From memory i think the belt you need would be a "green belt" rated for that type of drive set up. A decent belt / bearing supplier would advise you on that.

Good luck!

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16 hours ago, spudulike said:

Faced with that, I would remove or loosen the belts and make sure the cylinder and the drive roller both turn easily. I would then tension the cylinder belt to see if the motor will spin it and then do the same with the roller.

If an incorrect belt is fitted, the belt will slip round the pulleys so the drive can't drive either the cylinder if drive roller. On my Qualcast 17 ( bit like a Suffolk Colt) the tensioner is engaged to tighten the belt to get if to drive. The cylinder is in a centrifugal clutch. Not had a Webb machine in yet...Atco, Suffolk and Qualcast only.

Cheers spud, bad description on my part. The problem is, getting the drive to the cylinder to disengage, the mower works fine, it's just that you cant stop. I have obtained a belt 1.5 cm longer at the enormous expense of £2-29 and will try that.

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35 minutes ago, Mick Jones said:

Agree with the above. Check roller is turning freely with belt off and work from there. One thing to watch with those Webb drives is try too get the correct belt ( not a bog standard drive belt) as the pulley is constantly running against the belt when not in drive. This can cause heat build up on that section of the belt. By adjusting the round guide bars either side of the pulley (a tap with a hammer😂) you should be able to keep the belt clear of the live pulley.

From memory i think the belt you need would be a "green belt" rated for that type of drive set up. A decent belt / bearing supplier would advise you on that.

Good luck!

Thanks Mick, I think you are on the right track, see my reply to spud above.

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7 hours ago, Deafhead said:

Cheers spud, bad description on my part. The problem is, getting the drive to the cylinder to disengage, the mower works fine, it's just that you cant stop. I have obtained a belt 1.5 cm longer at the enormous expense of £2-29 and will try that.

OK, by cylinder, I mean the cutting cylinder not the drive roller ...just to clarify. Looking at your machine, it looks like the drive roller and the cylinder are engaged with the loose belt being tensioned by the way of a movable roller pushing on the belt to tension it...same as the drive roller in my Qualcast but my cutting cylinder is engaged with a centrifugal clutch which is different to yours.

If either the cutting cylinder or drive roller are engaged all the time, you would normally back off the tensioning roller which looks like you have a slotted hole to facilitate this and if you can't, you need a longer drive belt which may be as you suspect, an incorrect belt. There may also be cable tension adjustment to control the drive on and off control as there is on my mower.

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Thanks again Spud, With two belts, three cables and a hatfull of adjustments the permutations are endless. I am picking up my new belt tomorrow (I hope) so will keep you posted on progress. A landscape gardener friend of mine recons that I have the only two belt version in existence, because he's never come across one in the fifty odd years he's been in business. The reel drive now works correctly by the way.

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