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Flue Query


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31 minutes ago, Macpherson said:

None of these have the cone adapter straight onto the twinwall, so you'd have to ask if the adapter is off true to accommodate some problem with the position of the hole in the wall as if you could reposition the flue true to the wall you may be a brick out on the inside and a good bit more on the other side of the wall.

 

I think you have it, a single skin would normally rise up to 400mm vertically then the adapter to the twin wall.

 

It looks like the bespoke wall/register plate  dictates the angle and possibly they have moved the stove a bit further away from the wall as a result.

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8 minutes ago, openspaceman said:

I think you have it, a single skin would normally rise up to 400mm vertically then the adapter to the twin wall.

 

It looks like the bespoke wall/register plate  dictates the angle and possibly they have moved the stove a bit further away from the wall as a result.

 

Thanks, but I'm only guessing from my own experience.. getting the hole in the right place on any job is the difficult bit and any error is very difficult to compensate for after that fact, if you were to true up that pipe the hole would be well wrong inside and out.

 

And a happy and rewarding 2023 to you👍

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Certainly looks like it is an adaptor on top from the photos of the stove itself.

 

I suspect you are right that the installer didn't quite get it right to install with a vertical flue, and had to go angled. I am sure I read the numbers the other week and can be corrected of course, but I think there is a minimum vertical distance above the stove before there is a bend.. could be that the installer didn't quite get this right to allow for a true vertical flue pipe, then the bend (for example at 45 degrees, if the horizontal needs to move 100mm in then the bend also needs to go down 100mm. Suspect this might be why it is as it is. The fix? Get a lower table for the stove (or shorten it), or drill new holes and fill the walls so to get the distances correct, or live with it?

 

 

(for those sad enough to check, I think the flue is 8 bricks height to the start of the angled piece, at 65mm+mortar each brick? a 600mm 'vertical flue' as it is. If it is off vertical by 50mm, you also lose that in height so would be a 550mmm vertical flue to the first bend?)

 

Just trying to find a source online to tell me the numbers but I can't see it just now

 

 

 

EDIT...

 

as soon as I press 'save', 600mm minimum vertical distance and an allowed 15 degree angle

 

WWW.THESTOVEYARD.COM

This at-a-glance guide to stove installation is intended to provide you with some general information regarding basic stove installation requirements – it is not intended to be...

 

Edited by Steven P
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On 30/12/2022 at 22:28, madcourier said:

So I just got log burner installed. Noticed that the flue is nice and vertical viewed from front, but leans back viewed from side.

 

Am I just letting my ocd rule my head or should I not let this go. Would you guys let this go? Am I being super picky?

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Have they not installed the stove leaning backwards??? Or have they bent the outlet over, as i presume that it is meant to be vertical?? What i mean is, if the stove is on a flat surface, then surely the top of the outlet should be lever and not tilted back??

 

john..

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4 hours ago, madcourier said:

Thanks for all the replies. Sounds like quite a complex fix. Think we’ll be living with it.

 

To be fair unless you’re looking at it directly from the side it’s barely noticeable. 

You’re  quite right, just live with it, no big deal being off plumb. I’d be more concerned at having a 45 that near the stove, I was under the impression 35 was the max on a wood burner, ( recommended, not law?) Bends get hot! Should warm the room quicker though.

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You can use 45 bends no problem, all that’s happened here is they’ve not made the top of the knock through high enough, it’s a difficult job to get perfect and you end up having the pipe in and out over and over to get it right without taking too much out. 
The only fix is to disconnect and knock the top of the hole out, which would mean re plastering etc 

not a huge job but it depends if it bothers you, as for the adapter there’s always lots of play so they don’t always naturally sit plumb. 

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