Baffle plate advice

[openspaceman]

1 hour ago, AnthonyK said:

Yes, we have a main CO detector in the room just in front of the WB. Amazed it didn't go off

The thing about an updraught fire  is that the initial kindling burning is fairly complete, the conditions have not yet got hot enough for a CO2 to CO reduction to take place, this heats the layer above which produces the white smoke. Yes the pyrolysis products will have a little CO but it will be mostly just tarry volatiles, this is a good thing as they are particularly acrid so give good warning if they get into the room. At the end of a burn when there is a thick layer of red hot coals  but the draw from the chimney lessens as less air is sucked in at the primary level then the CO rises. At this stage there are no volatiles or smells so if there is an escape into the room the first sign, in the absence of a CO alarm, is lobster pink bodies.

[Dan Maynard]

I think top down warms the stove quicker if anything as it gets a flame going up the flue sooner.

 

The gap at the front of my baffle plate is only about half and inch, I'd say your 1" is plenty.

[Bolt]

If it were me, I would minimise smoke production…. So dump the paper.

 

If you’re using fire lighters, they will be more than adequate when combined with finely chopped kindling.

 

Can’t speak of the ‘top down method’ as I’ve never tried it, but it is popular with those who practice it.

[Bolt]

Unfortunately, you now have a non-standard stove,- which I my opinion is great - but it may make the trick of  learning how to set it going properly may have additional steps.

 

As John has said, consider getting  the chimney properly swept first.  Personally, this would be my first step for any unknown stove installation.

 

Some sweeps deploy smoke bomb things to check the chimney’s draw, so it may be worth enquiring about that.

 

I would wait before trimming the register plate until other options have been exhausted.

[AnthonyK]

Thanks, chimney was swept (and is clear) just a fortnight ago, draw was decent. Problem may be the flue is just not warming so the smoke is finding its way out of the top vent? Will try some suggestions and see how they go, once my better half allows to me to light it up again! 🙄

[Bolt]

16 minutes ago, AnthonyK said:

 

….once my better half allows to me to light it up again! 🙄  
 

Aaaaargggh….. fallen fowl of the controlling authorities.

[Bolt]

Personally, I would start with:

..Fully close top vent (stop loosing hot gasses from starting flow up chimney).

..Fully open bottom vent (get as much oxygen to the fire as poss so it burns fiercely from the start)

..Build fire close to front of firebox (minimise cooling of hot gasses between seat of fire and chimney, maximise the effect of oxygen supply)

..Have a go at the top down lighting method.

 

There are a lot of variables to try….. Does you wife do lots of evening classes?

[Bolt]

Of course…. It should be considered that whoever it was who removed the register plate, did so for a very good reason!!!

[Doug Tait]

44 minutes ago, Bolt said:

Personally, I would start with:

 

...flowers and a grovelling apology.

[spudulike]

The issue may well be a cold flue...You can use other methods of heating the flue, a number of nightlights can do it, hair drier, fan heater etc. Our old house needed the first burn of the year to warm the flue and after that, it was fine unless left a couple of days. The chimney was unlined which probably added to it needing warming....is yours lined and back filled with vermiculite, ceramic liners or just open brick?