knackered my bar today

[Steve Bullman]

if i have to i will. ive got the vallorbe sharpening kit in my bag always, i just choose to have a couple of spare chains if needed. if i go through them i will sharpen on site. i find better results useing my oregon bench grinder sharpening my chains at end of the day.

 

thats because you're not getting the practise in doing it by hand!

[skyhuck]

if i have to i will. ive got the vallorbe sharpening kit in my bag always, i just choose to have a couple of spare chains if needed. if i go through them i will sharpen on site. i find better results useing my oregon bench grinder sharpening my chains at end of the day.

 

I think if you sharped more often you would find you got better results, its all down to muscle memory, if you sharpen by hand free style often enough its becomes very quick and very effective. I can do a 85 link chain in well under 4 minuets.

[testcricket01]

thats because you're not getting the practise in doing it by hand!

 

its still personal preference though, i did 3 years doing it by hand only just bought bench grinder this christmas and find it much quicker and better results. like i say personal prefrence.

[Rich Rule]

totally agree dave.

 

just out of interest what is your method? log vice, single handed, both hands? I bore the nose into a log or cut a couple of inches in and rest the bar in. File each cutter on knees with saw between legs. both hands as I am ambidextrous. quick and get a good edge. usually do an extra stroke on the left hand cutters to compensate as it is the weaker side.

 

I have never used a bench grinder.

[skyhuck]

totally agree dave.

 

just out of interest what is your method? log vice, single handed, both hands? I bore the nose into a log or cut a couple of inches in and rest the bar in. File each cutter on knees with saw between legs. both hands as I am ambidextrous. quick and get a good edge. usually do an extra stroke on the left hand cutters to compensate as it is the weaker side.

 

I have never used a bench grinder.

 

I tend to use the chipper hopper, both hands as you say.

 

I bought a grinder years ago, never used it once, sold it to josh a while back.

[Andy Collins]

Tc1, many of us are of the school of hand-filing, that is all we do. personally I have never felt the need to use a bench-grinder, but if you have one and decide that it gets you better results, then all to the good. I wil occasionaly use a Dreme with sharpening stones for bigger bars, but I wont rely on it, its a tool that does the job to restore a hammered chain, to save time on filing. BUT I wlll use a file 95% of the time. Now you posted about a problem with your bar, and people have taken the time and effort to respond to this issue, in order to help you understand what may be causing your problem. so you wnt help yourself by becoming all defensive over it. If I have a problem with a fell, I will analyze it by looking at the stump and trying to see why things went the way they did, and you can tell a lot abut the way the saw is used by inspecting the bar and chain. We are all trying to help with constructive criticism, please dont take it the wrong way.

[18 stoner]

care to explain what strange views and ways i have?

 

Ok, sounds like your head is a bit mushed!

 

This thread will do fine, you start off by showing us a pic of a bar that to most of us looks like it has been either abused, over heated or has had very heavy work.

 

You say it is only 5 months old and has had little work but it has hardly any paint left on it. This is NOT the case of a bar you describe.

 

You go on to say(somewhat big headedly),quote "i mantain my equipment far more than all the people i no around here", but admit quote "yer there is grease holes not been greased as much as it should have its got to be said." Perhaps an admission of your lacking of maintenance?

 

You then go on to say the reason there is hardly any paint left on the bar is not overheating, but due to filing burrs, yet the paint near the burrs is still there in the pic. So perhaps your filing skills are not great?

 

Also, it seems you have been concerned enough about this problem to start a thread about it, but yet are not willing to take the said bar back to the dealer, where, if it is as you say, a very well maintained, hardley used 5 month old bar, they would replace it. This leads me to believe you know the story is not as you say it is.

 

As for saving time changing chains on site saves time, its utter rubbish! You may be able to change a chain quickly, but you should also be able to sharpen one quickly too! If you are taking chains off to sharpen with a grinder back at the yard later, it usually means you cant sharpen a chain correctly on site, hence my comments about needing lessons. Getting a sharp chain by hand is your basic saw maintenance ticket.

 

P.S, dont be offended, if theres something you dont like take it on the chin, and if someone is trying to help, dont reject it thinking you already know better, none of us know it all, i have been "learning" tree work for 25years.

[testcricket01]

Tc1, many of us are of the school of hand-filing, that is all we do. personally I have never felt the need to use a bench-grinder, but if you have one and decide that it gets you better results, then all to the good. I wil occasionaly use a Dreme with sharpening stones for bigger bars, but I wont rely on it, its a tool that does the job to restore a hammered chain, to save time on filing. BUT I wlll use a file 95% of the time. Now you posted about a problem with your bar, and people have taken the time and effort to respond to this issue, in order to help you understand what may be causing your problem. so you wnt help yourself by becoming all defensive over it. If I have a problem with a fell, I will analyze it by looking at the stump and trying to see why things went the way they did, and you can tell a lot abut the way the saw is used by inspecting the bar and chain. We are all trying to help with constructive criticism, please dont take it the wrong way.

 

i agree with the constructive criticism i can take that ive proved that on many of my threads. this thread half of it has been more than constructive criticism its being taking the mick, least thats now ive seen it. but im big boy i can take it so

[testcricket01]

Ok, sounds like your head is a bit mushed!

 

This thread will do fine, you start off by showing us a pic of a bar that to most of us looks like it has been either abused, over heated or has had very heavy work.

 

You say it is only 5 months old and has had little work but it has hardly any paint left on it. This is NOT the case of a bar you describe.

 

You go on to say(somewhat big headedly),quote "i mantain my equipment far more than all the people i no around here", but admit quote "yer there is grease holes not been greased as much as it should have its got to be said." Perhaps an admission of your lacking of maintenance?

 

You then go on to say the reason there is hardly any paint left on the bar is not overheating, but due to filing burrs, yet the paint near the burrs is still there in the pic. So perhaps your filing skills are not great?

 

Also, it seems you have been concerned enough about this problem to start a thread about it, but yet are not willing to take the said bar back to the dealer, where, if it is as you say, a very well maintained, hardley used 5 month old bar, they would replace it. This leads me to believe you know the story is not as you say it is.

 

As for saving time changing chains on site saves time, its utter rubbish! You may be able to change a chain quickly, but you should also be able to sharpen one quickly too! If you are taking chains off to sharpen with a grinder back at the yard later, it usually means you cant sharpen a chain correctly on site, hence my comments about needing lessons. Getting a sharp chain by hand is your basic saw maintenance ticket.

 

P.S, dont be offended, if theres something you dont like take it on the chin, and if someone is trying to help, dont reject it thinking you already know better, none of us know it all, i have been "learning" tree work for 25years.

 

alright

i said i mantain my equipment far more than anyone round here cause they dont do anything to them at all they just leave them occasionally sharpen them never clean them or anything thats what i ment by that.

 

it is 5 months old cause thats when i bought the saw. and it hasnt had a hard life at all but when it has been used its been used all day felling and logging.

 

the greaseing is the only thing i dont do because the grease guns i have are useless which is a lack of maintanence i will agree with you.

 

and the fileing is the main reason for the paint coming off theres alot more paint further down the bar where i havent been filing it and if you saw my files you can see there full of the paint.

 

i have my cs30 ticket and can file by hand nowhere near as good as you lot im sure.

 

i wasnt concerned with it to post it its just the guys at work never seen it before they have 20years experience so i thought i would share it with you lot.

 

as for not taking it back to the dealer i live about 4o/50 mins drive away from there its not worth my while doing it.

 

i have taken it on the chin but you was trying to make me look like a idiot maybe its cause its hard to get my point across on here im not good with wording but there we are.

 

never have surgested i no it all cause i never will why im going on rfs course this year learn more.

[Mesterh]

Takes minuets with a sharp file, IMPE.

 

Takes me more than a couple of minutes to sort out a badly damaged full chisel on a 36" bar. Hence why I carry spares.

 

Just touching up a chain doesnt take long but when its been hammered and needs a couple of mm taking off and the rakers doing its just quicker and easier to swap it over.

 

Each to there own though.