Land Rover Discovery 2

[HJK]

Thinking of purchasing a disco 2. Should I get manual or automatic?

[Dan Maynard]

Less important than the state of the chassis, I would say.

[HJK]

Yeah I was more thinking, if the chassis is solid, lowish milage and what not... Should I go for manual or automatic. A mate of mine had problems with an auto but didn't know if that was a one off

[Ian C]

I’m a disco 2 fan, I have a facelift model in Manuel, it’s not for work it’s mine as I’m an enthusiast, there good to run, forget about mileage, you won’t get a low mileage one and if you do will be mega money, check the chassis and then check again, most will have been welded and as long as done right isn’t an issue, I prefer manual in older vehicles as the old torque converter boxes were sluggish.  Mine is a standard ES model and is slowly getting restored 

[waterbuoy]

Depeds on what you are going to use it for - I do a lot of towing so now opt for the autos every time.  I had a Disco 1 (300TDi) Auto that did over 300k miles before I blew a piston through the block whilst towing a loaded trailer uphill and overtaking a fully loaded timber wagon 🙄 - all on the same gearbox and transfer box. 

 

Prior to that I had three RR classics - two manuals, on which the transfer boxes might as well have been made of cheese, and one with a ZF auto that did well over 330k before I sold it, still with the oiginal box and transfer box.  After the D1 it was a TD5 defender - killed that with the original box but the third transfer box.

 

Based on the above then if you are going to do a lot of towing then I would consider an auto if you can get a good one.  They are also much more relaxing to drive, and don't screw up your left knee like the manuals can!

 

Current vehicles are a D3 at 275k and a D4 at 130k - D3 gearbox was replaced at 85k with a known issue (stator bush) but the replacement is approaching 200k.

[HJK]

Where's the places to look on the chassis? I was told the rear?

[HJK]

2 minutes ago, waterbuoy said:

Depeds on what you are going to use it for - I do a lot of towing so now opt for the autos every time.  I had a Disco 1 (300TDi) Auto that did over 300k miles before I blew a piston through the block whilst towing a loaded trailer uphill and overtaking a fully loaded timber wagon 🙄 - all on the same gearbox and transfer box. 

 

Prior to that I had three RR classics - two manuals, on which the transfer boxes might as well have been made of cheese, and one with a ZF auto that did well over 330k before I sold it, still with the oiginal box and transfer box.  After the D1 it was a TD5 defender - killed that with the original box but the third transfer box.

 

Based on the above then if you are going to do a lot of towing then I would consider an auto if you can get a good one.  They are also much more relaxing to drive, and don't screw up your left knee like the manuals can!

 

Current vehicles are a D3 at 275k and a D4 at 130k - D3 gearbox was replaced at 85k with a known issue (stator bush) but the replacement is approaching 200k.

Cheers thanks 👍

[Ian C]

4 minutes ago, HJK said:

Where's the places to look on the chassis? I was told the rear?

Yeah rear half, spring cups top of chassis legs, there are good ones out there but you can’t be fussy on spec and model etc 

[Stihl123]

Manual I'd say

When I had I had so many issues with the xyz switch, cost me a fortune 

 

Again, check chassis very carefully, especially rear quarter 

[Moose McAlpine]

Rear chassis around the fuel tank, body mounts, front inner wheelarches/footwells. 

 

Mine has a few holes and needs plating up before i buy a new galv chassis for it.

 

Manual for me. My car's an auto but my van and Disco are manual. Both are for towing, i prefer the control of a manual over an auto for towing.

 

My Disco was given to me by my uncle, who bought it new, now waiting for its once-over: