Ecodesign stoves

[Stubby]

1 hour ago, Muddy42 said:

Thanks I will check them out.  Quite a few are described as "ecodesign ready."  I need to check what that means, hopefully I interpret this as "ready" for a cat or air stop mechanism, that can be removed. I will check before buying.  

On my Holeywell there is an aperture around the back with a plate held in place by an off center screw . You can have it completely open ( for smokeless zone ) or anything from that to fully covered  . I have it fully covered coz I live in the sticks . I just control it with the air slide at the front . Very simple to use .

Edited June 12, 2022 by Stubby

[Dazza95]

On 12/06/2022 at 06:15, trigger_andy said:

 

 

Sounds like you need a Clearview. 🤣

I’d make them my next choose to support their stance .

 

 

I do wonder if there’s any wisdom with what Clearview are saying.

 

I haven’t used many other stoves but we visited some friends recently who have a relatively modern Stovax stove (not sure if it was Ecodesign) and I was surprised at how little control it seemed to have and how often it needed refuelling.  Our Clearview can be loaded with some decent chunks of wood and with the draught set right, it’ll happily go for a good few hours before it needs reloading. There’s no visible smoke (though I’m sure there’ll be some invisible pollutants)  and the glass stays clean too. It might not be as efficient on paper but it makes it much easier to manage when using it as a main heat source as we now do. 

[waterbuoy]

Furthermore..... interesting calculation to be done on 'being more efficient but burns more wood' vs 'less efficient but can burn slower' - wonder which one produces highest total emissions in a typical burn cycle?

[Muddy42]

Furthermore..... interesting calculation to be done on 'being more efficient but burns more wood' vs 'less efficient but can burn slower' - wonder which one produces highest total emissions in a typical burn cycle?

Also what about engine size? Could you not have an efficiency compliant 12kw stove and an older non-compliant 4kw stove. Surely the former produces more total emissions?

[Alycidon]

On 13/06/2022 at 19:23, waterbuoy said:

Furthermore..... interesting calculation to be done on 'being more efficient but burns more wood' vs 'less efficient but can burn slower' - wonder which one produces highest total emissions in a typical burn cycle?

No question,   slow burn means less efficient, more emissions, more soot in the chimney.

 

Best way to use a modern stove is to run it pretty well open all the time and control the heat output by the volume of fuel you are loading at a time.  

 

A

Edited June 15, 2022 by Alycidon

[Muddy42]

No question,   slow burn means less efficient, more emissions, more soot in the chimney.
 
Best way to use a modern stove is to run it pretty well open all the time and control the heat output by the volume of fuel you are loading at a time.  
 
A

It depends on how much you like stoking your stove every 30 mins?

Personally I am fine with chasing cleanliness and efficiency by other means, reburn, flue design, catalytic convertors or whatever. But restricting a stove’s air intake so it is always a little open just seems like a blunt approach to me.

What happens if you live in an old house, tall chimneys, leaky windows and amazing draft? If you cant shut the stove down what can you do if it gets too hot or someone else puts too much wood on? What happens if you have a chimney fire?

Rather like tuning carburettors, I’d far rather be in control of the air mix than at the mercy of someone else’s factory setting, thank you very much!

[trigger_andy]

It depends on how much you like stoking your stove every 30 mins?

Personally I am fine with chasing cleanliness and efficiency by other means, reburn, flue design, catalytic convertors or whatever. But restricting a stove’s air intake so it is always a little open just seems like a blunt approach to me.

What happens if you live in an old house, tall chimneys, leaky windows and amazing draft? If you cant shut the stove down what can you do if it gets too hot or someone else puts too much wood on? What happens if you have a chimney fire?

Rather like tuning carburettors, I’d far rather be in control of the air mix than at the mercy of someone else’s factory setting, thank you very much!

Thankfully I don’t live in an area where I have to worry about such nonsense. I generally follow the instruction manual for my stoves and that advice must be 10-15 years old. Sub 25%mc logs and hot fast burn for 20 minutes twice a day. Never had an issue. It’s great to have the ability to slumber the Stove for periods of time when we’re out or busy.

When it comes time to replace a Stove I’ll be sure to remove all the BS gubbins to get the stove to run right.

[Muddy42]

30 minutes ago, trigger_andy said:

 

Thankfully I don’t live in an area where I have to worry about such nonsense. I generally follow the instruction manual for my stoves and that advice must be 10-15 years old. Sub 25%mc logs and hot fast burn for 20 minutes twice a day. Never had an issue. It’s great to have the ability to slumber the Stove for periods of time when we’re out or busy.

When it comes time to replace a Stove I’ll be sure to remove all the BS gubbins to get the stove to run right.

 

I have just unwrapped a new Esse 1. The ecodesign is achieved via air intake rather than a cat etc.  I also live in the sticks and would rather be fully in control of the stove's air intake. Please note it is more air control I am after, I am not aiming to run it closed down with the associated soot and dirt, I just want the ability to close it down, should I choose.  The ecodesign features appear in two forms:

1. A hex grub screw in the travel of the primary air intake to keep it cracked open.  That will be removed shortly after the installer leaves the house.

2. Two holes in the back of the stove.  The nice people at Esse told me about these.  As these holes are round I am sure a small section of threaded steel rod could fit. I think I will see how it runs first, in case the rod binds/expands or gets stuck.

 

Massive disclaimer: Esse did not recommend this nor I am I. Any modifications to your stove are done at your own risk.

 

[trigger_andy]

I have just unwrapped a new Esse 1. The ecodesign is achieved via air intake rather than a cat etc.  I also live in the sticks and would rather be fully in control of the stove's air intake. Please note it is more air control I am after, I am not aiming to run it closed down with the associated soot and dirt, I just want the ability to close it down, should I choose.  The ecodesign features appear in two forms:
1. A hex grub screw in the travel of the primary air intake to keep it cracked open.  That will be removed shortly after the installer leaves the house.
2. Two holes in the back of the stove.  The nice people at Esse told me about these.  As these holes are round I am sure a small section of threaded steel rod could fit. I think I will see how it runs first, in case the rod binds/expands or gets stuck.
 
Massive disclaimer: Esse did not recommend this nor I am I. Any modifications to your stove are done at your own risk.
 

I love my Esse Ironheart. It has three levers to fully control the burn and temp plus one for the oven. Took a little while to master but it’s brilliant when you do so.

[Alycidon]

On 17/06/2022 at 12:27, Muddy42 said:

I have just unwrapped a new Esse 1. The ecodesign is achieved via air intake rather than a cat etc.  I also live in the sticks and would rather be fully in control of the stove's air intake. Please note it is more air control I am after, I am not aiming to run it closed down with the associated soot and dirt, I just want the ability to close it down, should I choose.  The ecodesign features appear in two forms:

1. A hex grub screw in the travel of the primary air intake to keep it cracked open.  That will be removed shortly after the installer leaves the house.

2. Two holes in the back of the stove.  The nice people at Esse told me about these.  As these holes are round I am sure a small section of threaded steel rod could fit. I think I will see how it runs first, in case the rod binds/expands or gets stuck.

 

Massive disclaimer: Esse did not recommend this nor I am I. Any modifications to your stove are done at your own risk.

 

I am an Esse dealer,  the mods you suggest would invalidate any stove casing warranty should an issue occur.  The holes in the back are permanently open and designed to ensure that there is always enough oxygen in the stove to combust the creosote laden gases given off by your logs.

 

Blocking them will achieve what you want but crerosote that has not been burnt in the firebox due to the temperatures being to low then condenses in the chimney and is one of the two main causes of chimney fires,  the other is burning wet wood.    You have a chimney fire following the mods you propose and are at risk of your insurance loss adjuster invalidating your insurance claim.

 

A