Tips On Buying a Log Splitter

[woodwizzard]

2 hours ago, Stubby said:

Ok . Do you find on tough stuff there is not enough torque and it can stall then you have to cut the log off the cone ? 

I try to read the log, so that doesn't happen too often. I learnt to split of the bits down to that nasty branch union or whatever and then just throw it aside and deal with it with a chainsaw. Do you not worry about shearing something off with too much power?

 The ash rings I am splitting at the moment are really stringy and holding on, I am finding it quicker and easier using the woodland mills processor as a stand alone splitter.

[Stubby]

4 minutes ago, woodwizzard said:

I try to read the log, so that doesn't happen too often. I learnt to split of the bits down to that nasty branch union or whatever and then just throw it aside and deal with it with a chainsaw. Do you not worry about shearing something off with too much power?

 The ash rings I am splitting at the moment are really stringy and holding on, I am finding it quicker and easier using the woodland mills processor as a stand alone splitter.

Yes I know what you mean about " reading the log " . I have had it stall and a piece and jam under the cone and bend the shaft a tad .   I think the cone is too high to be honest . If you look at tractor driven hycrack the cone is lower to the bed . This stopps stuff jamming under and lessens the tendancy to flip . Easy splitting stuff is quick as you like but gnarly stuff I use the hydraulic one . With a 30HP + tractor there is more torque and they just slowly chew through ugly stuff . Thats why I went for more power .

Edited March 6, 2021 by Stubby

[woodwizzard]

I never present the log to the cone flat on the table either. I always raise the log edge then push on the cone. I find the cone pulls the log better without trying to pull it down into the table at the same time.

[ESS]

2 hours ago, Stubby said:

   I think the cone is too high to be honest . If you look at tractor driven hycrack the cone is lower to the bed . This stopps stuff jamming under and lessens the tendancy to flip . 

I have had a couple of Hycracks, the first one which was the cheaper farmer type model. It eventually sheared the shaft. I had a stronger shaft made which meant bigger bearings , which in turn increased the gap from base plate to cone. Could spin logs for fun if you weren't careful after the alterations. The gap increase wasn't massive but made a big difference. 

[woodwizzard]

What cone and tips do you  use Stubby?

[Ontario Firewood Resource]

I never tried the corkscrew but it looks like its only for smaller diameter. I'm used to getting big medium to extra large diameter wood I use the axe for any small diameter in a tire for the small diameter.

[Stubby]

3 hours ago, Ontario Firewood Resource said:

I never tried the corkscrew but it looks like its only for smaller diameter. I'm used to getting big medium to extra large diameter wood I use the axe for any small diameter in a tire for the small diameter.

The opposite really . I find the " over size " rings easier on a corcscrew . Smaller bits can be a bit fiddly and can flip if not careful .  With the big rings you just offer it up bark side to the cone and it drags it on divvying it up like a cake !

[Ontario Firewood Resource]

Ok thanks, I will be buying on eventually just to play around with