Timberwolf 230 DHB Starting Issues

[Khriss]

If there  are fabric covered fuel hoses on it, i would replace those  even temporarily, never trusted those things as they can chafe in the chassis rail n pinhole.  K

[Paddy1000111]

2 minutes ago, jurassic86 said:

The filter doesn't fill until ignition is switched on and then after you turn off ignition it seems to go back into fuel tank. 

Well there's your air lock... If you take off the fuel hose where it connects to the pump housing and lift it up and stick a jerry can on it then flick the ignition on and pump a tonne of fuel through. Get rid of that massive air bubble in the filter because that really shouldn't be there, there's always a little bubble but it shouldn't be like that. Connect the hose back up and turn the ignition on and bleed the pump through the nipple. Stick a hose on that nipple and again, bleed the living shite out of it. Then crack the injector hoses one by one and fire it over until you get all that air out 

[jurassic86]

28 minutes ago, Paddy1000111 said:

Well there's your air lock... If you take off the fuel hose where it connects to the pump housing and lift it up and stick a jerry can on it then flick the ignition on and pump a tonne of fuel through. Get rid of that massive air bubble in the filter because that really shouldn't be there, there's always a little bubble but it shouldn't be like that. Connect the hose back up and turn the ignition on and bleed the pump through the nipple. Stick a hose on that nipple and again, bleed the living shite out of it. Then crack the injector hoses one by one and fire it over until you get all that air out 

Will definitely give that a go. Looking at my photo are we sure the rack inside fuel pump isn't jammed closed? 

 

Just concerned that since taking this solenoid out I can't really see what it would push in because the rack looks further in than the pin on solenoid will push ?

[Paddy1000111]

3 minutes ago, jurassic86 said:

Will definitely give that a go. Looking at my photo are we sure the rack inside fuel pump isn't jammed closed? 

 

Just concerned that since taking this solenoid out I can't really see what it would push in because the rack looks further in than the pin on solenoid will push ?

I cant remember these pumps perfectly as it's been a while but I'm pretty sure the fuel px pushes it towards the solenoid and the solenoid pushes it back again on shutdown. From memory the solenoid is out and then pulled in by 12v. When it loses 12v it comes back out again into shutdown position 

[jurassic86]

25 minutes ago, Paddy1000111 said:

I cant remember these pumps perfectly as it's been a while but I'm pretty sure the fuel px pushes it towards the solenoid and the solenoid pushes it back again on shutdown. From memory the solenoid is out and then pulled in by 12v. When it loses 12v it comes back out again into shutdown position 

Yeah that's exactly how it works by the looks of it but how do you know the rack isn't stuck closed.

[Paddy1000111]

11 minutes ago, jurassic86 said:

Yeah that's exactly how it works by the looks of it but how do you know the rack isn't stuck closed.

Only way is to get rid of that air lock, fire it over and make sure it comes out. I think you've ended up with an airlock up in the pump head somewhere and you need a bit of flow to get it shifted. The lifter pump is obviously pushing fuel into the HP pump, compressing whatever air bubble is up there and then backflowing when it's no longer pumping as the bubble is giving back pressure hence why that filter is filling and then pushing back into the tank. If you take off the end of the rubber hose and pump fuel into a container so you can stick it back into the tank after then you can confirm everything is working properly, it may take up to 5L or so to get all the air out. once its at that point then hook that line back up and with a hose on the pump bleed point open it right up and get a good flow of fuel out instead of a little trickle/drip. They can be a little like bleeding brakes sometimes, you need good flow or the fluid moves around the air instead of taking it with it. If you have no air in the HP pump or the fuel lines and it was that arm that was stuck you wouldn't be having this massive air bubble in the clear filter that comes and goes depending on if the lifter pump is running as the system would be hydrolocked which is what you want. If you are getting good flow out of that nipple and still no fuel at the injectors you can leave the low pressure pump running (ignition on) and crack off all the injector lines and turn it over in quick bursts, it's rare but I have had to do it before to get a big air pocket out if the whole pump is dry. 

 

The real question is how the air got in there in the first place. You could be right and the pump head is knackered and that's what's causing the air to get in etc and this all could be treating symptoms not causes but even a weak pump should get fuel to the cracked off injector lines which you said you haven't got

[Will C]

1 hour ago, jurassic86 said:

The filter doesn't fill until ignition is switched on and then after you turn off ignition it seems to go back into fuel tank. 

Try it with the lid off the fuel tank. We had a forklift once doing much the same, turned out the tank breather was blocked and it was creating a vacuum in the tank sucking the fuel back as soon as it was stopped. 

[jurassic86]

12 minutes ago, Paddy1000111 said:

Only way is to get rid of that air lock, fire it over and make sure it comes out. I think you've ended up with an airlock up in the pump head somewhere and you need a bit of flow to get it shifted. The lifter pump is obviously pushing fuel into the HP pump, compressing whatever air bubble is up there and then backflowing when it's no longer pumping as the bubble is giving back pressure hence why that filter is filling and then pushing back into the tank. If you take off the end of the rubber hose and pump fuel into a container so you can stick it back into the tank after then you can confirm everything is working properly, it may take up to 5L or so to get all the air out. once its at that point then hook that line back up and with a hose on the pump bleed point open it right up and get a good flow of fuel out instead of a little trickle/drip. They can be a little like bleeding brakes sometimes, you need good flow or the fluid moves around the air instead of taking it with it. If you have no air in the HP pump or the fuel lines and it was that arm that was stuck you wouldn't be having this massive air bubble in the clear filter that comes and goes depending on if the lifter pump is running as the system would be hydrolocked which is what you want. If you are getting good flow out of that nipple and still no fuel at the injectors you can leave the low pressure pump running (ignition on) and crack off all the injector lines and turn it over in quick bursts, it's rare but I have had to do it before to get a big air pocket out if the whole pump is dry. 

 

The real question is how the air got in there in the first place. You could be right and the pump head is knackered and that's what's causing the air to get in etc and this all could be treating symptoms not causes but even a weak pump should get fuel to the cracked off injector lines which you said you haven't got

Thanks for this will give this a go. It did run out of fuel before this all happened. We topped it up and it started fine on restart... It was only after we turned it off with a key it started playing up.

[Paddy1000111]

Just now, jurassic86 said:

Thanks for this will give this a go. It did run out of fuel before this all happened. We topped it up and it started fine on restart... It was only after we turned it off with a key it started playing up.

Also do what Will says, I don't know how I didn't think of that...

 

It does sound like it sucked in air and after being parked up the air has settled at the highest point

[Paddy1000111]

Did this get resolved?