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Is milling hard on saws?


Paddy1000111
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Okay so for those that have seen some of my other posts you may know where I am going with this. I need a new saw and I was eying up a 661 but I have been asked about milling by a company that makes worktops etc and they need someone to mill timber in the forest and have links with other companies in the same position. They've been trying to find someone to do it for them but can't. This has made me consider stepping up to the 881 and buying an Alaskan mill as it could open the doors to some side work. At the same time, I am also thinking if really I want to do milling as it seems pretty brutal on the saw? Are there tricks to make it less hard apart from the additional chain oiler?

 

Cheers! 

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Yes it certainly can be.

When trimming out brash, or even felling a tree your only flat out in short bursts, often feathering and or at idle.

Milling you'll be flat out for anything from 3mins to 10 mins plus depends on the stem.

And youll find that milling is exempt in the small print from warranty.

Id personally not be buying a new saw, find a decent second hand at a very good rate.

 

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30 minutes ago, Paddy1000111 said:

Okay so for those that have seen some of my other posts you may know where I am going with this. I need a new saw and I was eying up a 661 but I have been asked about milling by a company that makes worktops etc and they need someone to mill timber in the forest and have links with other companies in the same position. They've been trying to find someone to do it for them but can't. This has made me consider stepping up to the 881 and buying an Alaskan mill as it could open the doors to some side work. At the same time, I am also thinking if really I want to do milling as it seems pretty brutal on the saw? Are there tricks to make it less hard apart from the additional chain oiler?

 

Cheers! 

Mick dempsey if selling his setup so give him a shout asap before someone else does 

 

Stopping milling now

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9 minutes ago, Big Beech said:

Yes it certainly can be.

When trimming out brash, or even felling a tree your only flat out in short bursts, often feathering and or at idle.

Milling you'll be flat out for anything from 3mins to 10 mins plus depends on the stem.

And youll find that milling is exempt in the small print from warranty.

Id personally not be buying a new saw, find a decent second hand at a very good rate.

 

Are you sure about the warranty? Seems odd that it doesn't mention that in the Manual or Stihls warranty guide. It even says on the stihl site that it is designed for the hardest conditions of forestry and saw milling. The product page even says it can be fitted to a saw frame? 

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1 minute ago, Paddy1000111 said:

Are you sure about the warranty? Seems odd that it doesn't mention that in the Manual or Stihls warranty guide. It even says on the stihl site that it is designed for the hardest conditions of forestry and saw milling. The product page even says it can be fitted to a saw frame? 

Roughy would answer that question no problem as just got his hands on the new 881 

Edited by topchippyles
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2 minutes ago, Paddy1000111 said:

 Apart from that, new saw or old, any life elongation tips apart from running fresh mix and blowing it out?

Warm up and cool down... Don't fire up a cold saw and go straight into a long cut and after a long cut, leave your saw to idle for a while to cool down. Basic mechanical sympathy goes a long way

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2 minutes ago, tree_beard said:

Warm up and cool down... Don't fire up a cold saw and go straight into a long cut and after a long cut, leave your saw to idle for a while to cool down. Basic mechanical sympathy goes a long way

Funnily enough I was watching some milling with an 881 on some 70" timber and the guy got to the end of the massive cut and turned it off before it was even out of the wood and I had a little feeling of pain inside 😂

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