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Posted

3 Strand high tensile cable for horses.

40" 30" 20"

 

I'm only a novice. Was tought ages ago how to do it properly.

 

Once the strainer is in we bang a strut in at 45⁰. Notch cut the face of the strainer or simply nail into it.

Or another method put horizontal post to brace between strainer and intermediate.

 

We tension up and staple in to touch the wire on intermediate posts.

 

Using a machine tractor or what ever. past the straining post we tension up.

 

But question is whats best practice for securing all that tension.

 

So far its wacking a staple fully home to secure. Couple wraps round the post and back round its self to make a neet twisted termination.

 

Sparsholt had some good sheets on this at one stage.

 

 

 

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Posted

We only do netting but find that a strut dug into the ground and notched into the post with a nail/screw as well is best.

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Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, woodwoozles said:
6 hours ago, doobin said:
First thing to do is ditch that level mate. 

Yep pi$$Ed init

You’ll find it quicker and easier once you get your eye in for plumb. Levels are for sawn posts, not field fencing. 
 

without a diagonal brace wire returning the push force from the fence pulling to the bottom of the strainer post that horizontal strut ( should be round too imho) isn’t doing bugger all. It also needs to be longer, 8’ is normal for box strainers. 
im a fan of stapling off to

finish as it’s quicker but only if you then loop round once and tie off so the wire can pull central. Doing it like you do looping round a few times means the post is likely to spin in the ground and the strainer assembly will fall apart.  

Edited by doobin
Posted

Google "conservation handbooks" you can pay a small subscription and get access to a whole set online. Loads of good info in there with different designs and methods, etc. 

 

I use Gripple T-Clips for my wire ends, nice neat finish and you don't have to bang staples in hard and damage the wire, they also won't turn the posts when you pull up. 

I also use gripples with the contractor tool for tensioning up and joining, but you don't need the tool just for T-Clips. 

  • Like 2
Posted
You’ll find it quicker and easier once you get your eye in for plumb. Levels are for sawn posts, not field fencing. 
 
without a diagonal brace wire returning the push force from the fence pulling to the bottom of the strainer post that horizontal strut ( should be round too imho) isn’t doing bugger all. It also needs to be longer, 8’ is normal for box strainers. 
im a fan of stapling off to
finish as it’s quicker but only if you then loop round once and tie off so the wire can pull central. Doing it like you do looping round a few times means the post is likely to spin in the ground and the strainer assembly will fall apart.  
To be honest its a bit of a joke taking it out with us. We hadn't used it all day. Then out of curiosity we had a look and the two posts were perfectly plumb.
Posted
Not sure if it's still in print, the BTCV do a useful reference book on fencing
 
WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK
Buy Fencing: A Practical Handbook by Agate, Elizabeth, British Trust for Conservation Volunteers (2001) Spiral-bound by...  
Thanks, will look to getting that.
Also Ive found this one. Digital Kindle or soft or hard covered book.

A Guide to Stock Fencing by Andy Radford
WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK

Buy A Guide to Stock Fencing New edition by Radford, Andy (ISBN: 9781847976130) from Amazon's Book Store. Everyday low prices and free delivery on eligible orders.


For anyone else looking this thread up in the future wanting more info.

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