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Cleaning carb on smoking Stihl


coppicer
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Well, the razor blade was more successful, in that it didn't gouge the metal like the screwdriver and the pick, but it did create micro-abrasions as you can see. Having thought about it, if the replacement gasket sticks to the surface as tenaciously as the previous gasket did, it should create a good enough seal once it's screwed down. I've decided not to worry about it, and will try looking at the needle this morning.

 

1631735610_20200723_090210-25.thumb.jpg.6c3b4b600d1c0c66887056372dc4fc56.jpg

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The service manual says to fit a new needle "if there is an annular indentation on the sealing cone of the inlet needle". I can see that the cone is darker, but I don't see an indentation or a groove, so I think this is OK as it is. I mean, I have a replacement, but would it make any difference?

needle.thumb.jpg.406fa3aad939cae97cde9af6ac1f474e.jpg

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The service manual says to fit a new needle "if there is an annular indentation on the sealing cone of the inlet needle". I can see that the cone is darker, but I don't see an indentation or a groove, so I think this is OK as it is. I mean, I have a replacement, but would it make any difference? needle.thumb.jpg.406fa3aad939cae97cde9af6ac1f474e.jpg

Just go for it, refit new all round, its a good learning curve for ya [emoji106]
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Just found your post. I rebuilt my Husqvarna 235 x torq right down to the crank bearings and now have the carb in bits .

After the initial re-build it would only operate for a while and was erratic.  Stripped the saw a second time and re laid the liquid gasket crankcase sealer again !. Gave it a compression check and registered 115 Lbs PSI and still erratic , could not give it a vacuum test though. So suspecting the carb it has now come apart now .  Have a rebuild kit for it here.  Am wondering how your re-build is going .

I am wondering , because inside the carb is a welsh plug underneath the fuel diaphragm with a small amount of sealer around its edges , sealing the plug against the ali body, however some has come away which could compromise its fuel metering action into the intake intake port holes or the area and holes under the welch plug are blocked .

 

 

 

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4 minutes ago, woodstock said:

Am wondering how your re-build is going.

So far so good, but I don't have the technical experience to be able to comment on the welch plug. Maybe if you set up a thread for the 235 you'll get a response? You may get one here too.

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17 minutes ago, woodstock said:

Just found your post. I rebuilt my Husqvarna 235 x torq right down to the crank bearings and now have the carb in bits .

After the initial re-build it would only operate for a while and was erratic.  Stripped the saw a second time and re laid the liquid gasket crankcase sealer again !. Gave it a compression check and registered 115 Lbs PSI and still erratic , could not give it a vacuum test though. So suspecting the carb it has now come apart now .  Have a rebuild kit for it here.  Am wondering how your re-build is going .

I am wondering , because inside the carb is a welsh plug underneath the fuel diaphragm with a small amount of sealer around its edges , sealing the plug against the ali body, however some has come away which could compromise its fuel metering action into the intake intake port holes or the area and holes under the welch plug are blocked .

 

 

 

I would have said 115psi is not enough .  Once it gets warm the clearances will open up to the point it wont support combustion . 

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Was dreading taking off the gasket on the other side, but it came off easily and in one piece. Result! Fuel strainer appeared clean, but replaced it anyway, as well as the gasket and diaphragm. Don't have a 5mm drift to knock out the valve jet. 

 

1434238517_20200723_181935-25.thumb.jpg.86cfd71589c9af6e210baf9963e83dce.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by coppicer
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