Cleaning carb on smoking Stihl

[coppicer]

8 minutes ago, spudulike said:

handbook that came with the saw, go with that otherwise use my setting if you have the S121B or 122B carb

Thanks for that. No, this is a service manual I got recently, no idea where original manual went. ?

I can't see anything that indicates whether this is an S121B or a 122B. Can see the C1Q marked on a recess in the carb body, and a "274", but nothing else, so I'm as much in the dark as you are.

Edited July 18, 2020 by coppicer

[coppicer]

12 minutes ago, Ratman said:

Thats a bit sizeist!

Like I told the missus, it's how you use it.

[coppicer]

Clutch drum/sprocket looks a bit worn.

 

 

There seems to be a piece of wire floating around behind the clutch, attached at one end maybe? Would like to get the clutch off, but not sure how to immobilise piston, as I don't have the Stihl locking strip thing.

 

[AngrySquirrel]

29 minutes ago, coppicer said:

Clutch drum/sprocket looks a bit worn.

 

 

There seems to be a piece of wire floating around behind the clutch, attached at one end maybe? Would like to get the clutch off, but not sure how to immobilise piston, as I don't have the Stihl locking strip thing.

 

That wire is oil pump drive on inside of drum is a recess that picks that wire up should line them up when replacing drum,

was going to say about sprocket looking worm!

 

To remove clutch if have an impact driver/wrench? use a socket on hex in middle then quick rattle to the right if not something blunt on outer edge of clutch and a whack with hammer it's not the force but the quick shock

[coppicer]

7 hours ago, AngrySquirrel said:

To remove clutch if have an impact driver/wrench?

Got a Makita DTD154Z, think it's designed more for screws, but might work if I put it in "beast mode".

[Will C]

A meter of CLEAN starter cord down the park plug hole will block the piston if your stuck, poss not the best way but very effective as long as you dont lose the end 

[coppicer]

Having thought about it using the Makita windy gun is likely a non-starter. I bought it mainly for use with screws and bolts, and the 1/4" holder isn't really designed for shocking off a 19mm nut like this. You can get 1/4" to 1/2" adapters of course, and even 19mm sockets on a 1/4" shank, but I think the chance of it shearing off is pretty high.

 

Thanks to @Will C for the tip. I don't have any starter cord clean or otherwise (clean, in my shed??) or rope, etc. so I'll look into sourcing the little Stihl widget.

[spudulike]

1 hour ago, frammo said:

yep your right....,people dont forget to put retainers on...,bearing cages dont collapse..shaft ends dont shear and every compression test must be done twice....get over yourself... you work on the simplest engine ever produced...even model

enthusiasts have reeds and tuned pipes to play with.....hopefully i can get back to giving unbiased ,non profit making advice

to people that want it ..without your snipes.....in life you are always gonna come across someone that knows things you dont...try not to let it frighten you

I think you need to calm down a bit and agree.....simplest engine on Gods earth!

The rest of it is a bit iffy.

[Will C]

Be careful with it, the plastic piston stop that comes with a new clutch can break off in the pot, then you have to remove the exhaust and shake it out. I have used them successfully but have also had them break if heavy handed

[coppicer]

13 hours ago, spudulike said:

My chart says C1Q S121 or 122 is 1.5 turns on the L and H is 1 turn.

The MS181 has changed over the years, the initial saw was non Strato, yours is the later model. If you are using the handbook that came with the saw, go with that otherwise use my setting if you have the S121B or 122B carb

Mine must be older than I remembered. Have found the manual and it suggests 3/4 and 1 turn for H and L respectively!